Legends -- Pyrenees; Pyrenees -- Description and travel; Pyrenees -- History
Situation--Climate--Stillness of the air--Castle--Abd-el-Kader--
Thackeray on his imprisonment--View of the Pyrenees--Henry II of
Navarre--His escape from Pavia--Marguerite des Marguerites--What
Henry II did for Béarn--Refugee Huguenot preachers--Solon and
his many wives--Clement Marot--His Psalms--The Queen an odd
mixture--Story of Mlle. de la Roche--Jeanne d’Albret--Marries
the Duke of Cleves--Then Antoine de Bourbon--His murder
planned--Birth of Henry IV--Cradle--Bilhère--Reared at Coarraze
--Death of Antoine--Intolerance of Jeanne--Meeting with Charles
IX--Gondin’s unfortunate pleasantry--Marguerite de France’s
visit to Pau--The Count of Moret--A mysterious hermit--Henry IV
tolerant--The Baron d’Arros--Demand for the columns of Bielle--
La Poule au Pot--Lescar--Mosaics--A Roman villa--Gassion--
Bernadotte--Morlaas--Pont-long--Legend--Coarraze--Betharam--
A flying Virgin--Jurançon wine.
The situation of Pau is singularly favoured, and one can appreciate
the judgment of Henry II of Navarre in transferring thither the
court residence from Orthez. Pau occupies the back of a rubble ridge
stretching east and west, facing the south, and drinking in the
sunlight and warmth. It does not suffer from cold winds. The land rises
behind it to the north, and one may see the clouds fly overhead without
feeling the air stir at Pau. The calmness of the atmosphere often
persists for weeks together.
[Illustration: PAU]
In this it has an advantage over some of the towns of the French
Riviera, where the mistral cuts like a knife that has been frozen
in an ice-pail. The bitter winds that sweep down on the Riviera are
produced by the snows of the Maritime Alps. But there are no snows at
the back of Pau. When there is no breeding ground for icy winds, no icy
winds are hatched.
But, on the other hand, a good deal of rain is brought up and
discharged over Pau, coming from the Atlantic; and a whole month may
elapse without the promenaders on the terrace being able to catch a
glimpse of the Pic du Midi d’Ossau. The Girondin climate is notoriously
rainy, especially in spring; but nothing can surpass the splendour of
the days in summer and autumn.
Mrs. Ellis, who wrote her _Summer and Winter in the Pyrenees_ in 1841,
says:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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