France -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- France
a tree of a circumference so vast and so perfect that the whole
population of Loches might sit in concentric rows beneath its boughs.
The gem of the place, however, is neither the big _marronier_, nor the
collegial church, nor the mighty dungeon, nor the hideous prisons of
Louis XI.; it is simply the tomb of Agnes Sorel, _la belle des belles_,
so many years the mistress of Charles VII. She was buried in 1450, in
the collegial church, whence, in the beginning of the present century,
her remains, with the monument that marks them, were transferred to one
of the towers of the castle. She has always, I know not with what
justice, enjoyed a fairer fame than most ladies who have occupied her
position, and this fairness is expressed in the delicate statue that
surmounts her tomb. It represents her lying there in lovely demureness,
her hands folded with the best modesty, a little kneeling angel at
either side of her head, and her feet, hidden in the folds of her decent
robe, resting upon a pair of couchant lambs, innocent reminders of her
name. Agnes, however, was not lamb-like, inasmuch as, according to
popular tradition at least, she exerted herself sharply in favour of the
expulsion of the English from France. It is one of the suggestions of
Loches that the young Charles VII., hard put to it as he was for a
treasury and a capital--"le roi de Bourges," he was called at Paris--was
yet a rather privileged mortal, to stand up as he does before posterity
between the noble Joan and the _gentille Agnes_; deriving, however, much
more honour from one of these companions than from the other. Almost as
delicate a relic of antiquity as this fascinating tomb is the exquisite
oratory of Anne of Brittany, among the apartments of the castle the only
chamber worthy of note. This small room, hardly larger than a closet,
and forming part of the addition made to the edifice by Charles VIII.,
is embroidered over with the curious and remarkably decorative device of
the ermine and festooned cord. The objects in themselves are not
especially graceful, but the constant repetition of the figure on the
walls and ceiling produces an effect of richness in spite of the modern
whitewash with which, if I remember rightly, they have been endued. The
little streets of Loches wander crookedly down the hill and are full of
charming pictorial "bits:" an old town-gate, passing under a medieval
tower, which is ornamented by Gothic windows and the empty niches of
statues; a meagre but delicate _hotel de ville_ of the Renaissance
nestling close beside it; a curious _chancellerie_ of the middle of the
sixteenth century, with mythological figures and a Latin inscription on
the front--both of these latter buildings being rather unexpected
features of the huddled and precipitous little town. Loches has a suburb
on the other side of the Indre, which we had contented ourselves with
looking down at from the heights while we wondered whether, even if it
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