And Ravenna is a specially cold place. At Florence, the winter, though
short, is often sharp enough; and the climate of the old Tuscan city is
considered a somewhat severe one for Italy. But the district which lies
to the north-eastward, on the low coast of the upper part of the stormy
Adriatic, is much colder. There is nothing, neither hill nor forest,
between the Friulian Alps and Ravenna, to prevent the north-eastern
winds, bringing with them a Siberian temperature, from sweeping the low
shelterless plain on which the ancient capital of the Exarchs is
situated.
They were so sweeping that plain, and howling fiercely through the
deserted streets of the old city, on the November evening in question.
Nevertheless there were several persons loitering around the door of
that ancient hostelry, the "Albergo della Spada," in the Via del Monte,
then as now, and for many a generation past, the principal inn of
Ravenna. They were wrapped in huge cloaks, most of them with hoods to
them, which gave the wearers a strange sort of monkish appearance. And
they from time to time blew upon their fingers, in the intervals of
using their mouths for the purpose of grumbling at the cold. But they
none of them resorted to tramping up and down, or stamping with their
feet, or threshing themselves with their arms, or had recourse to
movement of any kind to get a little warmth into their bodies, as
Englishmen may be seen to do under similar circumstances. However cold
it may be an Italian never does anything of this sort. It must be
supposed, that to him cold is a less detestable evil than muscular
exertion of any kind.
There were some half-dozen men standing about the door; and though they
were doing nothing, it was not to be supposed that they stood there in
the bitter cold for their own amusement. The fact was, they were waiting
for one of the great events of the day at Ravenna,--the arrival of the
diligenza from Bologna. It was past six o'clock in the evening; and it
could not now be long before the expected vehicle would arrive.
It is a distance of some sixty miles from Bologna to Ravenna; the
diligence started at five in the morning, and was due at the latter city
at five in the evening. But nobody expected that it would reach its
destination at that hour. It had never done so within the memory of man,
even in the fine days of summer, and now, when the roads were rough with
ridges of frozen mud! It was now, however, nearly half-past six--yes,
there went the half-hour clanging from the cracked-voiced old bell in
the top of the round brick tower, which stands on one side of the
cathedral, and by its likeness to a minaret reminds one of the Byzantine
parentage of its builders.
Half-past six! The loiterers about the inn door remark to each other,
that unless "something" has happened old Cecco Zoppo can't be far off
now.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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