A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806Carr, John, Sir
History
A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806
Carr, John, Sir
Netherlands -- Description and travel; Rhine River Valley -- Description and travel
We were passed by several curricles, a very common carriage in this part
of Holland, the horses in rope harness, going to and from Rotterdam. In
the roof of the boat were some ladies and gentlemen, who, as well as I
could discern through the smoke, seemed pleased to see me so with their
country. The land all the way on each side was rich pasture. On our
left, a short distance from Delft, we passed a cannon foundry, and on
our right some potteries, where the Delft china, formerly much prized
all over Europe, and which Vandevelt and other eminent artists
embellished with their pencils, used to be manufactured in great
abundance. These potteries, since last war, have greatly declined, to
the severe injury of the adjoining town.
The principal cause of the decay of these potteries has been the vast
quantities of porcelain which, for more than a century and a half, have
been imported from China into Europe, and the great improvement of that
beautiful manufacture in England and Germany. Some years since the
earth-ware of Staffordshire was so much admired in Holland, that to
protect the manufacture of Delft from utter ruin, the States General
imposed a duty upon its importation into the republic, that nearly
amounted to a prohibition. Hence the name of an Englishman is not very
popular in Delft. I tasted some excellent beer in this town, which is
celebrated for its breweries, and produces an admirable imitation of
London bottled porter.
The town is very ancient and picturesque; at the place where we
disembarked, were several treckschuyts moored under an old castellated
gateway, from which, preceded by a commissary or licensed porter, who
attends the moment the boat arrives, with his wheelbarrow, to convey the
luggage of the passengers, we entered Delft, the capital of Delftland,
in the province of Holland, and proceeded to a very comfortable inn,
which furnished some good cutlets, and a bottle of claret. Before the
hotel all was bustle, from the number of carriages filled with genteel
people proceeding to, and returning from the Hague, to and from which
boats are passing every half hour.
Here, as in every inn in Holland, however humble, the guest has always
the comfort of a silver fork placed by his side, and a tablecloth of
snowy whiteness: in the room where I dined was a glass china cupboard,
and every article within it bore shining testimony to its having
received a due proportion of diurnal care. Delft is a large but gloomy
town, and as silent as a monastery, except in the street immediately
leading to the Hague; upon quitting which, no sound was to be heard but
that of mops and buckets: narrow, green, stagnant canals divide most of
the streets, which are generally, for some little distance before the
houses, paved with black and white marble. However, the principal part
of the town is handsome, having two spacious streets, with broad canals
bordered with trees.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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