_"Like the Quakers' by-way, 'Tis plain without turnpikes, so nothing to pay"_ An old witch, who had half starved us at _Montpellier_, for want of provisions, when we went, and for want of fire to dry us, when we came back, left a piece of candle in my budget, which I did not omit to return by the post, _well packed up_, lest it should grease other packets of more importance, by riding an hundred leagues; besides this it was accompanied by a very civil _letter of advice_, under another cover. LETTER LI. The next town of any note is _Sens_, a large, _ragged_, ancient city; but adorned with a most noble Gothic cathedral, more magnificent than even that of _Rheims_, and well worthy of the notice of strangers; it is said to have been built by the English: With the relicks and _custodiums_ of the host, are shewn the sacerdotal habits, in which Archbishop _Becket_ (who resided there many years) said mass, for it was his head-quarters, when he _left_ Britain, as well as _Julius Cæsar_'s before he went there. The silver hasps, and some of the ornaments of these garments, are still perfect, though it has undergone so many darnings, as to be little else. _Becket_ was a very tall man; for though it has many tucks in it, yet it is generally too long for the tallest priest in the town, who constantly says mass in it on _St. Thomas_'s day. How times and men are changed! This town, which resisted the arms of _Cæsar_ for a considerable time, was put in the utmost consternation by _Dr. Smollett_'s causing his travelling blunderbuss to be only fired in the air, a circumstance "which greatly terrified all the _petit monde!_" It is very singular, that the Doctor should have frightened a French nobleman of _Burgundy_, by shaking his cane at him, and even made him assist in the most servile offices; and in the next town, terrify all the common people, by only firing a blunderbuss in the air! I would not willingly arraign a dead man with telling two fibbs so close upon the back of each other; but I am sure there was but that single French nobleman, in this mighty kingdom, who would have submitted to such insults as the Doctor _says_ he treated him with; nor any other town but _Sens_, where the firing of a gun would have so terrified the inhabitants; for, drums, guns, and noise of every sort, seem to afford the common French people infinite pleasure. I spent in this town a day or two, and part of that time with a very agreeable Scotch family, of the name of _Macdonald_, where Lieutenant Colonel _Stuart_ was then upon a visit. I have some reason to think that _Sens_ is a very cheap town. Several English, Scotch, and Irish families reside in it. From _Sens_ to _Port sur Yonne_ is three leagues, and from _Yonne_ to _Foussart_ the same distance.