Atatürk, Kemal, 1881-1938; Turkey -- Description and travel; Turkey -- Politics and government -- 1918-1960
Stumbling over a stony and dangerous roadway, we at last reach a tent on
the side of the mountains, which has been prepared for us by the reserve
officers. We must sit on the cheik’s trunks and prayer-carpets, for the
ground is damp and mists enfold us. My chivalrous friend insists on
wrapping about me his shawl, his scarf, finally his long coat. “I do not
feel the cold as you do,” he declares as I try to protest; but the touch
of his hand contradicts the kind words.
In the distance we could see a few hill-fires and the torches of
night-wanderers as we enjoyed our evening meal. But no sooner had I
begun to wonder how many hours must pass before our experience became
history, than, behold, a gust of wind tore up the prop of our tent and
buried us in confused _débris_.
There was nothing for it but to extract ourselves and sit _upon_ instead
of _beneath_ the shelter that had been found for us. The cheik bravely
proceeded to delight me with all the wisdom of his religious philosophy
while the officer went in search of help. I have done strange things in
strange lands, but I wonder what would British “authority” say to this?
An unarmed, but fearless, Englishwoman in the damp, cold mists, waiting
through the dark night for her “discomfort to become history,” amidst an
army of supposed savage fanatics, and debating the greatness of God!
Truly, the Unknown bears strange offspring.
Little darts of light, no bigger than glowworms, are now everywhere
moving up and down the steep paths through the black mist.
It is not easy for the swiftest of native messengers to track the
“hidden” official of the mountains. Yet they seem to slip over the dark
ways like birds, carrying their message and returning while you are
wondering if they have yet started upon the road. Men have been
despatched, like carrier-pigeons, in all directions, and we soon hear
that the commandant, two hours away, has set out to find us, and we are
to walk as far as we can to meet him.
Once more the long procession, carrying its shawls and cushions, bags
and water-pots, is marching in hope of a night’s repose. In a little,
however, from somewhere, “orders” come in to “halt, and prepare the lady
a bed.”
Behold, it is done. Two boxes are found to support a wooden plank,
_beneath_ which the cheik will find some measure of rest for his weary
limbs, though he has given me his prayer-mat for mattress, his
attaché-case for a pillow and, against my express command, nearly all
the wraps in his possession. Under such conditions one does not
“undress” for the night; but rather contrives every possible addition to
the number of thick woollen garments normally required in these climes.
The officer has not even a rug to protect him from the damp earth, and I
find words strong enough to resist the loan of his coat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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