Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Balkan)
The scene spread before us was superb—a magnificent panorama of
mountains, some tipped with snow, white and brilliant under the
moonbeams. Below us, the valley was a great chasm of unfathomable
blackness.
With my strange host I chatted upon many subjects, and found him far
more intelligent than I had believed. Keen-witted, quick of perception,
just in his judgment, and yet filled with an intense hatred of both Turk
and Montenegrin alike, he explained to me many things of great interest.
He told me of the glorious traditions of his sturdy race and of the
prince of the Skender Beg family, who, they hoped, would one day come
back to rule them.
“We, the chieftains, hold authority from him,” he declared. “Oh yes, he
will come some day. Of that we are quite certain.”
“Englishmen have never dared to come here, have they?” I asked, with
some curiosity.
“Only once—a year or two ago. I discovered three of your compatriots
poking about in the rocks and chipping little pieces off. I had them
captured, and brought to me. At first I thought I would hold them to
ransom and make the Turks pay. But they were evidently poor fellows, for
their clothes were worn almost to rags, and they had very little money.
So I gave them their money back and sent them with an escort down to the
plain, forbidding them to enter our country again. I wonder why they
came, and why they were chipping the rocks?”
I told him that they were evidently mining prospectors; that Englishmen
travelled all over the world to discover minerals; and that a mine in
his country would be a source of great wealth. But my explanation did
not appeal to him. He could not see why they were chipping off those
pieces of rock. It was not flint, otherwise they might have wanted them
for gun-locks. No, the trio were distinctly suspicious characters, and
he was glad that he had expelled them.
“Have you ever held Englishmen to ransom?” I inquired.
“One. Five years ago. He came here shooting—after bears, I think. He was
evidently a great gentleman, for his guns were beautiful. The Turks paid
promptly.”
“Because he was an Englishman—eh?”
“Most probably,” he laughed. “Are they afraid of you English as they are
afraid of us?”
And soon afterwards he bade me good-night, and left me to throw myself
down upon my mattress of leaves and listen to the snoring of Palok and
the assembled family in the adjoining room.
I had thought Skodra barbaric, but here I was in an utterly unknown
corner of the earth, in an absolutely savage land—a land that knows no
law and acknowledges no master; a land that is the same to-day as it was
in the days of Diocletian and of Constantine the Great—Albania the
Unchanging.
[Illustration: Among the Skreli: Lûk (first on the right) and his
friends.]
CHAPTER V
LIFE WITH A BRIGAND BAND
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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