Arabia: The Cradle of Islam: Studies in the Geography, People and Politics of the Peninsula, with an Account of Islam and Mission-Work.Zwemer, Samuel Marinus
Islamic
Arabia: The Cradle of Islam: Studies in the Geography, People and Politics of the Peninsula, with an Account of Islam and Mission-Work.
Zwemer, Samuel Marinus
Arabian Peninsula; Islam; Missions -- Arabian Peninsula
When the Hebrew Scriptures reached Taiz I was again disappointed, for
the Governor would not permit the boxes to be opened, but they were to
be sent sealed and under guard to Sana. I afterward learned that the
“guard” was for me as well as the books, and that the soldier carried a
letter with this accusation written: “This is a converted Jew, who is
corrupting the religion of Islam, and sells books to Moslems and Jews.”
I had no alternative but to proceed to Sana; taking a Damar Arab as
servant, having dismissed the Aden camels.
I left Taiz on a mule July 26th, and arrived at Seyanee the same day.
The following night we reached Ibb. Here I was forced to lodge outside
of the town, as the guard had instructions not to let me “see things.”
I endured this impatiently, until I learned that our servant had been
imprisoned on our arrival because he told me the names of the villages
on the route! I then appealed to the Mayor, and on virtue of my
passports demanded the right of going about the town and the release of
my servant. After some delay, both requests were granted. The incident
is one of many to show the suspicion with which a stranger is regarded
by the authorities in Yemen. On Saturday the soldier and I hastened on
to reach the large town of Yerim before Sunday, and rest there, waiting
for the baggage camel. It was a long ride of twelve hours, but through
a delightful country everywhere fertile and terraced with coffee
plantations and groves of kaat.
Yerim, with perhaps 300 houses, lies in a hollow of the Sumara range of
mountains. It has a fortress and some houses of imposing appearance,
but the general aspect of the town is miserable. A neighboring marsh
breeds malaria, and the place is proverbially unhealthy in this
otherwise salubrious region. Niebuhr’s botanist, Forskal, died here
on their journey in 1763. The road from Ibb to Yerim has perhaps the
finest scenery of any part of Yemen; never have I seen more picturesque
mountains and valleys, green with verdure and bright with blossoms.
Scabiosa, bluebells, forget-me-nots, golden-rod, four-o’clocks and
large oleander-trees—
“All earth was full of heaven
And every bush afire with God.”
The cacti-plants were in full bloom, and measured twenty feet against
the mountain passes. Two thousand feet below one could hear the sound
of the water rushing along the wady-bed or disappearing under the
bridges that span the valleys. While high above, the clouds were half
concealing the summit of the “Gazelle Neck” (Unk el-Gazel).
Sunday, July 29th, was a cold day at Yerim; early in the morning the
temperature went down to 52°, and at night two blankets were needed.
Not until nine o’clock was it warm enough for the Yerim merchants to
open their shops.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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