Arabia: The Cradle of Islam: Studies in the Geography, People and Politics of the Peninsula, with an Account of Islam and Mission-Work.Zwemer, Samuel Marinus
Islamic
Arabia: The Cradle of Islam: Studies in the Geography, People and Politics of the Peninsula, with an Account of Islam and Mission-Work.
Zwemer, Samuel Marinus
Arabian Peninsula; Islam; Missions -- Arabian Peninsula
Sana, anciently called Uzal, and since many centuries the chief city
of Yemen, contains some 50,000 inhabitants and lies stretched out in a
wide, level valley between Jebel Nokoom and the neighboring ranges. It
is 7,648 feet above sea-level. The town is in the form of a triangle,
the eastern point consisting of a large fortress, dominating the town,
and built upon the lowest spur of Nokoom. The town is divided into
three walled quarters, the whole being surrounded by one continuous
wall of stone and brick. They are respectively the city proper,
in which are the government buildings, the huge bazaars, and the
residences of the Arabs and Turks; the Jews’ quarter; and Bir-el-azib,
which lies between the two, and contains gardens and villas belonging
to the richer Turks and Arabs. The city had once great wealth and
prosperity, and to-day remains, next to Bagdad, the most flourishing
city in all Arabia. The shops are well supplied with European goods,
and a large manufacture of silk, jewelry and arms is carried on. The
government quarter, with its cafés, billiard-rooms, large Greek shops,
carriages, bootblacks, and brass-band reminds one of Cairo. Sana has
forty-eight mosques, thirty-nine synagogues, twelve large public-baths,
a military hospital with 200 beds, and is the centre of trade for all
northern Yemen and northwestern Hadramaut, as well as for the distant
villages of Nejran and fertile Wady Dauasir. Arabs from every district
crowd the bazaars, and long strings of camels leave every day for the
Hodeidah coast.
On August 14th I took an early morning walk to Rhoda, a village about
eight miles north of Sana, and in the midst of beautiful gardens. From
Roda the direct caravan route leads to Nejran, and from the outskirts
of the village, looking north, an inviting picture met the eye. A
fertile plateau stretched out to the horizon, and only two days’
journey would bring one into the free desert beyond Turkish rule. But
this time the way across the peninsula was closed by my bankruptcy;
robbed at Yerim in the coffee-shop, and already in debt at Sana, it
would have been impossible to proceed, except as a dishonest dervish.
On the 21st of August I left Sana for Hodeidah, receiving a loan of
twenty dollars from the Ottoman government, to be paid back at the
American consulate. We followed the regular postal route, the same
which I had travelled on my first journey.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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