Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)Stanley, Edward
History
Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)
Stanley, Edward
Europe -- Description and travel; France -- History -- Consulate and First Empire, 1799-1815
The time for changing horses by my watch was not more than one
minute--before you knew one stage was passed another was commenced; they
gave us 5 minutes to eat our breakfast--an operation something like that
of ducks in a platter, the dish consisting of coffee and milk with rolls
sopped in it. The roads are incomparable--better than ours and nearly if
not quite as good as the Irish. The country from Havre to Rouen is rich
in corn of every description--there is nothing particular in the face
of it, and yet you would, if awakened from a dream, at once declare you
were not in England; in the first place there are no hedges--the road
was almost one continuous avenue of apple-trees; the timber trees are
not planted in hedgerows but in little clumps or groves, sometimes but
generally rather removed from the road, and it is amongst these that the
villages and cottages are concealed, for it is surprising how few in
comparison with England are seen. The trees are of two
descriptions--either trimmed up to the very top or cut off so as to form
underwood. I did not observe one that could be called a branching tree;
the finest beech we saw looked like a pole with a tuft upon it. The
cottages are mostly of clay, generally speaking very clean, and coming
nearer to what I should define a cottage to be than ours in England.
You see no cows in the fields, they are all tethered by the road-side or
other places, by which a considerable quantity of grass must be saved,
and each is attended by an old woman or child. We passed through 2 or 3
small towns and entered Rouen 8 hours after quitting Havre, 57 miles.
Rouen, beautiful Rouen, we entered through such an avenue of noble
trees, its spires, hills and woods peeping forth, and the Seine winding
up the country, wide as the Thames at Chelsea.
Such a gateway! I have made a sketch, but were I to work it up for a
month it would still fall far short and be an insult to the subject it
attempts to represent. If Havre can strike the eye of a stranger, what
must not Rouen do? Every step teems with novelty and richness, Gothic
gateways, halls, and houses. What are our churches and cathedrals in
England compared to the noble specimens of Gothic architecture which
here present themselves?... Rouen has scarcely yet recovered from the
dread they were in of the Cossacks, who were fully expected, and all
valuables secreted--not that they were absolutely without news from the
capital: the diligence had been stopped only once during the three days
after the Allies entered Paris. Till then they had proceeded _comme à
l'ordinaire_, and the diligence in which we are to proceed to-night left
it when Shots were actually passing over the road during the battle of
Montmartre--how they could find passengers to quit it at such an
interesting moment I cannot conceive; had I been sure of being eaten up
by a Horde of Cossacks, I could not have left the spot.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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