Having walked about eight miles since we struck the beach, and passed
the boundary between Wellfleet and Truro, a stone post in the sand,—for
even this sand comes under the jurisdiction of one town or another,—we
turned inland over barren hills and valleys, whither the sea, for some
reason, did not follow us, and, tracing up a Hollow, discovered two or
three sober-looking houses within half a mile, uncommonly near the
eastern coast. Their garrets were apparently so full of chambers, that
their roofs could hardly lie down straight, and we did not doubt that
there was room for us there. Houses near the sea are generally low and
broad. These were a story and a half high; but if you merely counted
the windows in their gable-ends, you would think that there were many
stories more, or, at any rate, that the half-story was the only one
thought worthy of being illustrated. The great number of windows in the
ends of the houses, and their irregularity in size and position, here
and elsewhere on the Cape, struck us agreeably,—as if each of the
various occupants who had their _cunabula_ behind had punched a hole
where his necessities required it, and, according to his size and
stature, without regard to outside effect. There were windows for the
grown folks, and windows for the children,—three or four apiece; as a
certain man had a large hole cut in his barn-door for the cat, and
another smaller one for the kitten. Sometimes they were so low under
the eaves that I thought they must have perforated the plate beam for
another apartment, and I noticed some which were triangular, to fit
that part more exactly. The ends of the houses had thus as many muzzles
as a revolver, and, if the inhabitants have the same habit of staring
out the windows that some of our neighbors have, a traveller must stand
a small chance with them.
Generally, the old-fashioned and unpainted houses on the Cape looked
more comfortable, as well as picturesque, than the modern and more
pretending ones, which were less in harmony with the scenery, and less
firmly planted.
[Illustration: A characteristic gable with many windows]
These houses were on the shores of a chain of ponds, seven in number,
the source of a small stream called Herring River, which empties into
the Bay. There are many Herring Rivers on the Cape; they will, perhaps,
be more numerous than herrings soon. We knocked at the door of the
first house, but its inhabitants were all gone away. In the meanwhile,
we saw the occupants of the next one looking out the window at us, and
before we reached it an old woman came out and fastened the door of her
bulkhead, and went in again. Nevertheless, we did not hesitate to knock
at her door, when a grizzly-looking man appeared, whom we took to be
sixty or seventy years old. He asked us, at first, suspiciously, where
we were from, and what our business was; to which we returned plain
answers.
“How far is Concord from Boston?” he inquired.
“Twenty miles by railroad.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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