Cornwall (England : County) -- Description and travel
The name Porthminster means "church of the sands" and it is curious that
the church should thus be referred to in one of the principal
place-names when the St. Ives' people had originally to go to Lelant
for their services, marryings and buryings. Finding this state of things
intolerable they petitioned for a church of their own and completed it
in 1426. It was built close to the shore for the obvious reason that the
stone of which there was abundance in the neighbourhood, could be more
easily brought by water than overland, but it was not so near the sea as
now, for in the seventeenth century "there was a field between the
churchyard wall and Porth Cocking Rock, and sheep grazed on it."
The church of Lelant was rapidly being overpowered by the sand which has
swallowed up many ancient oratories or "cells" built low down on the
shore, and it was only saved by the planting and rapid spreading of the
coarse rush grass which binds the surface of the towans together in a
kind of mat and prevents the sand from drifting.
St. Ives with its eastern aspect is fresh even in the summer, and yet
strange to say not very cold in winter, as the flowering shrubs which
grow so well testify.
Newquay is not at all like St. Ives; it has no quaint muddled fishing
town behind the "visitors' front," and it lies all along the top of high
cliffs so that its main street is almost level, or at any rate,
level for Cornwall. At one end is Towan Head not unlike St. Ives'
Island, and from thence the bay runs in great scoops or curves cut off
from each other except at low tide. These sandy bays, surrounded by high
cliffs, resemble to some extent those at Broadstairs, and the aspect of
Newquay is the same as that at Broadstairs for it faces mainly north. It
is airy and spacious and light, and its signmark of originality lies not
in its front so much as in its back, the long estuary of the Gannel
River which forms a kind of back-door entrance. But villas and
boarding-houses are rapidly springing up along the Gannel estuary,
facing south, with their backs to Newquay proper, and thereby a bit of
very fine wild land is being spoilt. There are excellent golf-links
along Fistral Bay and huge hotels have sprung up to reap what harvest of
visitors there may be, indeed it is a stock joke to say of Newquay, as
may be said with much truth about Oban, "every second house is an
hotel."
[Illustration: FROM LELANT TO GODREVY]
No one who looks at the map even cursorily can fail to note the
extraordinary number of places in Cornwall beginning with the prefix St.
This would be natural in Roman Catholic Ireland but it is whimsical in
Methodistical Cornwall. It is, however, but one of the many signs of the
very ancient history of the place which gives it so much charm. These
reminders keep cropping out constantly among the modern surroundings, as
the granite outcrops on the Bodmin moors and again at Land's End and the
far-lying Scilly Isles, which are too but granite peaks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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