Cornwall (England : County) -- Description and travel
Far deeper than the inlet of the Gannel at Newquay is that of the River
Camel, near the mouth of which Padstow stands. This is an estuary filled
with water at high tide and lying in long melancholy reaches of sand at
low tide. Padstow clusters round a very old-fashioned little port, where
seafaring men congregate and discuss the weather and prices. There is
not a great deal of fishing and only a little general trade, as the
mouth of the river requires ticklish navigation. There is an enormous
hotel standing on a height, and a very attractive church with an old
Elizabethan mansion of the Prideaux-Brune family behind it. But all the
sands are on the other side of the estuary, at Rock, whence the
ferry-boat paddles to and fro about every hour. The rolling dunes have
been utilized for fine golf-links and the all-encroaching sand has done
its best to swallow up the little chapel of St. Enodoc, as it once
succeeded in doing with St. Piran's; so far it has been kept at bay, but
it still drifts in whenever it gets the chance. The links run out in the
direction of Pentire Point, one of the fine coast headlands. It is very
remarkable in Cornwall how constantly names are duplicated, one might
imagine it would give rise to difficulties to find a Pentire Point here,
and an East and West Pentire Point at the mouth of the Gannel near
Newquay, many miles south, and just below this Pentire Point is Hayle
Bay, and opposite Lelant near St. Ives we have again Hayle at the mouth
of the river. Newlyn by Penzance is well known, and Newlyn East south of
Newquay not so well. We have St. Just in Penwith and St. Just in
Roseland. There are doubtless many other instances.
Of all the four seaside places discussed in this chapter Bude has
perhaps most strongly its own character. Whoever heard of a seaside
place with a sweet-water canal running down the beach? Canals are not
usually associated with beauty and the very word canal is enough to
frighten off many people. But the canal at Bude is quite peculiar. It
only serves the purpose of a harbour for the ketches or fishing-boats
apparently, and a very awkward harbour it makes too when a distracted
ketch harassed by the strong flowing tide and baffled by a teasing wind,
noses this way and that and fails to hit the narrow entrance. Then, a
thing of beauty and distress, she heels over on the beach as the tide
runs out, and the natives gather round to speculate whether she will
"break her back" or not.
Bude possesses a breakwater too, but the oddest breakwater! For, instead
of curving round like most normal ones, it sticks out straight into the
sea and forms a favourite public promenade, with the added excitement
that in rough weather you may very easily be swept off the hog's back of
rounded stones and dashed to pieces against the rocky masses on either
side.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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