Crossing the Plains, Days of '57: A Narrative of Early Emigrant Travel to California by the Ox-team MethodMaxwell, Wm. Audley (William Audley)
History
Crossing the Plains, Days of '57: A Narrative of Early Emigrant Travel to California by the Ox-team Method
Maxwell, Wm. Audley (William Audley)
Overland journeys to the Pacific
The combination train was further divided, each party shaping its
farther course according to the location of its final stop. The
Drennans took the Carson Route, the Maxwell train proceeding by the
more northerly, Truckee, trail. The associations of the plains, closer
cemented by the sharing of many hardships and some pleasures, had
created feelings almost equal to kinship, more binding than those of
many a life-long neighborhood relation. So there were deep regrets at
parting.
On leaving the Sink of the Humboldt there was before us a wholly
desert section, forty miles wide. The course led southwesterly, over
flat, barren lands, with a line of low hills, absolutely devoid of
vegetation, on our right. This was known to be one of the hard drives
of our long journey; but hearsay knowledge was also to the effect
that, at its farther border, we would reach the Truckee River, and
soon thereafter ascend the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The prospect of
seeing again a river of _pure_ water, and fresh, green trees, had a
buoyant effect on our lagging hopes; and these were further stimulated
by the information that not long after entering these forest shades we
would cross the State line into California.
While crossing the forty miles of desert, the sun-baked silt, at the
beginning, and later the deep, dry sand, made heavy going. To avoid
the almost intolerable heat of day as much as possible, and it being
known that water was not obtainable, during this much-dreaded bit of
travel, we deferred the start until mid-afternoon, and traveled all
night.
The impressions of that night ride were most extraordinary. As the
sun sank, and twilight shaded into night, the atmosphere was filled
with a hazy dimness; not merely fog, nor smoke, nor yet a pall of
suspended dust, but rather what one might expect in a blending of
those three. Only a tinge of moonlight from above softened the dull
hue. It was not darkness as night usually is dark. It was an
impenetrable, opaque narrowing of the horizon, and closing in of the
heavens above us; which, as we advanced, constantly shifted its
boundary, retaining us still in the center of the great amphitheater
of half-night. We could see one another, but beyond or above the
encompassing veil all was mystery, even greater mystery than mere
darkness. No moon nor stars visible; nothing visible but just part of
ourselves, and ours.
As the night merged into morning, the sunlight gradually dispelled the
mantle of gloom from our immediate presence; but still we could not
see out. As if inclosed in a great moving pavilion, on we went,
guided only by the tracks of those who had gone before.
In the after part of the night the loose cattle, having been for two
nights and a day without water, and instinctively expecting an
opportunity to drink, quickened their pace, passing the wagons; the
stronger ones outgoing the weaker, till the drove was strung out two
or three miles in length along the sandy trail.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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