Edinburgh: Picturesque NotesStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Edinburgh: Picturesque Notes
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
the Tron railings, the festivities begin to find their way indoors and
something like quiet returns upon the town. But think, in these piled
_lands_, of all the senseless snorers, all the broken heads and empty
pockets!
Of old, Edinburgh University was the scene of heroic snowballing; and one
riot obtained the epic honours of military intervention. But the great
generation, I am afraid, is at an end; and even during my own college
days, the spirit appreciably declined. Skating and sliding, on the other
hand, are honoured more and more; and curling, being a creature of the
national genius, is little likely to be disregarded. The patriotism that
leads a man to eat Scotch bun will scarce desert him at the curling-pond.
Edinburgh, with its long, steep pavements, is the proper home of sliders;
many a happy urchin can slide the whole way to school; and the profession
of errand-boy is transformed into a holiday amusement. As for skating,
there is scarce any city so handsomely provided. Duddingstone Loch lies
under the abrupt southern side of Arthur’s Seat; in summer a shield of
blue, with swans sailing from the reeds; in winter, a field of ringing
ice. The village church sits above it on a green promontory; and the
village smoke rises from among goodly trees. At the church gates, is the
historical _joug_; a place of penance for the neck of detected sinners,
and the historical _louping-on stane_, from which Dutch-built lairds and
farmers climbed into the saddle. Here Prince Charlie slept before the
battle of Prestonpans; and here Deacon Brodie, or one of his gang, stole
a plough coulter before the burglary in Chessel’s Court. On the opposite
side of the loch, the ground rises to Craigmillar Castle, a place
friendly to Stuart Mariolaters. It is worth a climb, even in summer, to
look down upon the loch from Arthur’s Seat; but it is tenfold more so on
a day of skating. The surface is thick with people moving easily and
swiftly and leaning over at a thousand graceful inclinations; the crowd
opens and closes, and keeps moving through itself like water; and the ice
rings to half a mile away, with the flying steel. As night draws on, the
single figures melt into the dusk, until only an obscure stir, and coming
and going of black clusters, is visible upon the loch. A little longer,
and the first torch is kindled and begins to flit rapidly across the ice
in a ring of yellow reflection, and this is followed by another and
another, until the whole field is full of skimming lights.
CHAPTER X. TO THE PENTLAND HILLS.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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