Farnham's Travels in the Great Western Prairies, etc., part 2, October 21-December 4, 1839: and De Smet's Oregon Missions and Travels over the Rocky Mountains, 1845-1846Smet, Pierre-Jean de
History
Farnham's Travels in the Great Western Prairies, etc., part 2, October 21-December 4, 1839: and De Smet's Oregon Missions and Travels over the Rocky Mountains, 1845-1846
Smet, Pierre-Jean de
Indians of North America -- West (U.S.); Oregon -- Description and travel; Overland journeys to the Pacific; Rocky Mountains -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- History -- To 1848
To the south of the Columbia there are many small streams, three of which
only deserve the name of rivers: the Umpqua, Too-too-tut-na, or Rogues’
river, and the Klamet, which latter empties itself into the ocean south
of the parallel of 42°.[104] None of these form harbours capable of
receiving a vessel of more than eight feet draught of water, and the bars
for most part of the year are impassable from the surf that sets in on
the coast. The character of the great rivers is peculiar—rapid and sunken
much below the level of the country, with perpendicular banks; indeed
they are, as it were, in trenches, it being extremely difficult to get at
the water in many places, owing to the steep basaltic walls; and during
the rise they are in many places confined by dalles, which back the water
some distance, submerging islands and _tracts of low prairie_, giving the
appearance of extensive lakes.
LAKES.—There are in the various sections of the country many lakes. The
Okanagan, Stuart’s, Quisnell’s, and Kamloop’s are the largest in the
northern section.[105]
{288} The Flat Bow, Cœur d’Alène, and Kulluspelm, in the middle section,
and those forming the head-waters of the large rivers in the eastern
section.[106] The country is well watered, and there are but few places
where an abundance of water, either from rivers, springs, or rivulets,
cannot be obtained.
The smaller lakes add much to the picturesque beauty of the country. They
are generally at the head-waters of the smaller streams. The map will
point out more particularly their extent and locality.
HARBOURS.—All the harbours formed by the rivers on the sea-coast are
obstructed by extensive sand-bars, which make them difficult to enter.
The rivers bring down large quantities of sand, which is deposited on
meeting with the ocean, causing a gradual increase of the impediments
already existing at their mouths. None of them can be deemed safe ports
to enter. The entrance to the Columbia is impracticable two-thirds of the
year, and the difficulty of leaving is equally great.
The north sands are rapidly increasing, and extending further to the
southward. In the memory of several of those who have been longest in the
country, Cape Disappointment has been encroached upon some {289} hundred
feet by the sea, and, during my short experience, nearly half an acre of
the middle sands was washed away in a few days. These sands are known to
change every season.
The exploration made of the Clatsop, or South channel, it is believed,
will give more safety to vessels capable of entering the river. The depth
of water on the bar seems not to have changed, though the passage has
become somewhat narrow.
Grey’s harbour will admit of vessels of light draught of water, (ten
feet), but there is but little room in it, on account of the extensive
mud and sand flats. A survey was made of it, to which I refer for
particulars.
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