We Start on our Wedding Journey--Songdo--Guards at our Gates--Crossing the Tai-tong--Difficulties in Finding an Inn--Korean Launderings--An Old Man Seeks to be Rid of Sin--Mob at an Inn--A Ruffian Bursts Open my Door--Fight in the Inn Yard--Pat Defies the Crowd--Convenience of Top-knots--A Magistrate Refuses to Shelter Us--The “Captain” to the Rescue--Pack-ponies--We Lay a Deep Scheme--Torch Bearers--A Mountain Hamlet--Tiger Traps--Tigers--A Band of Thirty Conspire to Attack Us--Guns Used by Native Hunters--A Tiger Story. We started on our trip at early dawn, turning directly north, on the road passing under the arch, which then marked the spot where the representatives of Korea yearly met the Chinese ambassadors who came to receive tribute. This custom was maintained until Korea’s independence was declared; in honor of which the old arch was then taken down and a finer one erected. Beyond this arch lay the pass, a narrow, muddy and stony way, leading through the mountain. It was crowded with oxen and pack-ponies, going to and from Seoul. Shouting mapoos and coolies added to the confusion, great rocks seemed just ready to fall from above and crush the unlucky passers, and many which had fallen from time to time impeded the road. Now a fine road has been made across the hill, and the old way of danger and discomfort is closed up. From its darkness, its fiendish noises, gruesome odors and bad going it would not have been an unfit image of Bunyan’s Valley of the Shadow of Death. The snow still remained in sheltered places, for it was only March, and the morning air was sharp and chill, but we found a very fine road all the way to Songdo.