base of the pinnacles and there plant prayer plumes, there will be granted to them the children of their desire. There are trails, steep and rough, up Towa-yálleni’s sides, and if you can make the trip with an intelligent and communicative old Zuñi (most of the young ones seem to know or care little about the ancient things), you will have a remarkable outing. An hour or two spent on that lonely breeze-swept, sun-kissed mesa-top, with the ruined town, its broken shrines, its historic and legendary memories, will induct you, as no amount of reading will, into the atmosphere of the Southwest’s romantic past. There used to be—and for all I know still is—a trail that a rider on horseback can follow, at the northeastern side of the mesa. The ancient peach orchard through which it wound owes its existence to seed brought to Zuñi by the Spaniards. NOTE: Five miles northeast of Zuñi, is Black Rock, where travelers with an interest in Government education of the Indians may see a Reservation School in operation. Within a radius of 15 or 20 miles of the main pueblo are 3 farming villages occupied in summer by Zuñis to be near certain tracts of tillable land. One of these, Ojo Caliente, 15 miles southwest of Zuñi, is close to the site of ancient Háwikuh—the first Pueblo town seen by white men. Upon it in 1539, intrepid Fray Marcos de Niza looked down from a nearby height, and then, warned by the murder of his avant-courier, the negro Estévanico, beat a prudent retreat to Mexico. Coronado captured the place in the following year, and thence made his first report of the famous 7 cities to the viceroy in Mexico. It is the scene of one of the most charming of Cushing’s Zuñi folk tales, “The Foster Child of the Deer.” Extensive excavations have recently been made there by Government ethnologists. CHAPTER VII EL MORRO, THE AUTOGRAPH ROCK OF THE CONQUISTADORES