The last is a sort of "trial of appetite" course. It consists of large
dishes--sometimes eight or ten arranged in pyramid form--and the ever
forthcoming refusal to partake of it announces the termination of the
meal.
The attendants then bring in towels and bowls of hot water. They immerse
the towels in the water, and after wringing them out present them to the
guests in the order of their importance.
On special occasions the water is scented with otto of roses.
One habit of the attendants which is especially surprising to the novice
is that as their labors during the meal increase the temperature of
their bodies, the waiters divest themselves of the greater part of their
clothing!
One restaurant in Canton which caters for the cheaper class of trade,
feeds on an average five thousand persons daily. Each patron is served
with portions of regular size, and allowance is made for any pieces
which he may not eat.
The tea saloons are divided into two large rooms furnished with stools
and tables. Cakes, preserved fruits and tea are served. The cups are
usually covered so as to prevent the aroma of the tea from evaporating.
"Dog and cat" restaurants consist of one large public apartment, with
the entrance to the dining room through the kitchen.
Soup stalls are found on the street corners of the cities. They sell
luncheons of fish, pork, soups, vegetables, fried locusts, etc., from
one to two cents.
The oven, or, to speak more accurately, the baking apparatus, of the
average establishment is somewhat singular. It consists of a furnace
resembling a copper in shape, built in the center of an outhouse. The
hollow part (which is shallow) is filled with charcoal. A lid, which
fits the aperture, is so suspended by chains from the beams above as to
be capable of elevation or depression. Upon this lid, pastry and cakes
are placed and kept directly above or at any distance from the fire,
according to the heat desired.
The bakers often manufacture their bread without the use of shortening
of any description.
A very popular cake consists partially of mincemeat. The baker before
commencing to make it, places a pile of dough on one side and opposite
it a heap of mincemeat--a mixture of pork, sugar, spices, etc. He then
pulls off a piece of dough, rolls it into a ball, flattens it, covers it
with the meat, rolls it into a ball again, shapes it into a ring and
flattens it by a stroke of the hand into a cake of definite size and
thickness.
Among other dainty dishes of Chinaland are the "t'ien ya tzu," a species
of delicately flavored fat duck; "feng chi," salted chicken; a dish of
amber gelatine; a salad of bamboo shoots; "huo t'ui," a dainty ham of
the appearance of veal; "yü ch'ih," shark's fins, and "hai li tzu,"
devilled oysters with mushrooms.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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