From Berlin to Bagdad and BabylonZahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
HistoryChristian
From Berlin to Bagdad and Babylon
Zahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
Middle East -- Civilization; Middle East -- Description and travel
If, however, there is to be a transfer of Constantinople to some other
power than that of the Ottoman Empire, poetic justice seems to require
that the aspirations of Greece should receive first consideration.
Greek in language and nationality from the days of Byzas until it
was lost by the fortunes of war to the followers of Mohammed, this
city is claimed by the people that counts among its own a Belisarius,
a Pulcheria, a Tribonian, an Anthemius, a Chrysostom, a Gregory
Nazienzus--men and women who in eminence and achievement were surpassed
by none of their contemporaries west of the Adriatic and who were the
glories of the greatest home of art and literature and culture when
Russia was yet a land of wild nomads and ignorant barbarians. And this
same people claims Constantinople as theirs “by origin and by long
possession, a possession which has in some sort gone on both under
Frankish and under Turkish rule.”[50]
One of the most interesting and picturesque sights in Constantinople,
but of a far different character from those of which I have been
speaking, is to be seen on the lower bridge over the Golden Horn.
Connecting Galata, the part of the city which is chiefly inhabited by
non-Mussulmans, with Stamboul, which is occupied almost entirely by
Turks and Moslems of various nationalities, this bridge is frequently
crowded with people of every color and from every clime. But what a
noisy, jostling, struggling, wrangling, cosmopolitan throng one here
encounters! Here one sees representatives from all parts of Europe,
Asia, and Africa--bright-turbaned Turks, supple and chattering Greeks,
jauntily attired dragomans, gorgeously uniformed kavasses, heavily
burdened hamals, round-browed Montenegrins, white-kirtled Albanians,
bronzed and sun-dried Bedouins from Arabia, shuffling and high-voiced
eunuchs from Nubia and Abyssinia, and high-capped Tartars from the
steppes of Russia and Central Asia--all vociferating in a score of
languages and dialects, all utterly regardless of those who are round
about them.
And such a variety of garbs and partial garbs! And yet they attract
no attention in this motley crowd who here, as elsewhere in the
East, are accustomed to seeing people appareled in garments of every
conceivable style and color. “A man,” as has been observed by one who
knows the Orient well, “may go about in public veiled up to the eyes,
or clad, if he please, only in a girdle; he is merely obeying his own
law”[51]--following a custom which has prevailed among his ancestors
through countless generations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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