Gem-Stones and Their Distinctive Characters — John Shaqi
Gem-Stones and Their Distinctive CharactersSmith, George Frederick Herbert
Science
Gem-Stones and Their Distinctive Characters
Smith, George Frederick Herbert
Precious stones
The cabochon form may be of three different kinds. In the first, the
double cabochon (Fig. 40), both the upper and the under sides of the
stones are curved. The curvature, however, need not be the same in
each case; indeed, it is usually markedly different. Moonstones and
starstones are generally cut very steep above and shallow underneath.
Occasionally a ruby or a sapphire is, when cut in this way, set with
the shallow side above, because the light that has penetrated into the
stone from above is more wholly reflected from a steep surface with
consequent increase in the glow of colour from the stone. Opals are
always cut higher on the exposed side, but the slope of the surface
varies considerably; they are generally cut steeply when required for
mounting in rings. Chrysoberyl cat’s-eyes are invariably cut with
curved bases in order to preserve the weight as great as possible.
The double cabochon form with a shallow surface underneath merges
into the second kind (Fig. 41) in which the under side is plane, the
form commonly employed for quartz cat’s-eyes, and occasionally also
for carbuncles. In this type the plane side is invariably mounted
downwards. In the third form (Fig. 42) the curvature of the under
surface is reversed, and the stone is hollowed out into a concave
shape. This style is reserved for dark stones, such as carbuncles,
which, if cut at all thick, would show very little colour. A piece of
foil is often placed in the hollow in order to increase the reflection
of light, and thus to heighten the colour effect.
[Illustration: FIG. 42.—Double (Concavo-convex) Cabochon.]
In early days it was supposed that the extreme hardness of diamond
precluded the possibility of fashioning it, and up to the fifteenth
century all that was done was to remove the gum-like skin which
disfigured the Indian stones and to polish the natural facets.
The first notable advance was made in 1475, when Louis de Berquem
discovered, as it is said quite by accident, that two diamonds if
rubbed together ground each other. With confident courage he essayed
the new art upon three large stones entrusted to him by Charles the
Bold, to the entire satisfaction of his patron. The use of wheels
or discs charged with diamond dust soon followed, but at first the
lapidaries evinced their victory over such stubborn material by
grinding diamond into divers fantastic shapes, and failed to realize
how much might be done to enhance the intrinsic beauty of the stones by
the means now at their disposal. The Indian lapidaries arrived at the
same discovery independently, and Tavernier found, when visiting the
country in 1665, a large number of diamond cutters actively employed.
If the stone were perfectly clear, they contented themselves with
polishing the natural facets; but if it contained flaws or specks, they
covered it with numerous small facets haphazardly placed. The stone was
invariably left in almost its original shape, and no effort was made to
improve the symmetry.
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