[109] Studniczka has pointed out that the word χιτών is of Semitic origin, and connected with a root signifying “linen,” _Beiträge_, p. 17 f. [110] Cp. Fig. 14, the second figure to the right in the lower band. [111] _E.g._, B.M., E. 73; cp. Fig. 25, the two male figures. [Illustration: FIG. 26.] A diagram will best show how the sleeves were formed, and the position of the openings for neck and arms: _ab_ represents the upper edge of the chiton, along which a border is frequently woven or embroidered; _ef_ represents the space for the neck, through which the head is thrust; _ad_ and _bc_ represent the arm-holes, which hang down parallel to the wearer’s sides when the arms are held down in a normal position; the side-seams _ag_ and _bh_ are sewn along their whole length; the distances _de_ _fc_ are joined and gathered to form the full sleeve. The fulness is frequently held close to the figure by the addition of cross-bands, either crossing both in front and behind and attached to the girdle at the sides, or crossing only at the back and passing round the front of the shoulders. A very excellent sculptured representation of this, the simplest form of the Ionic chiton, is to be found in the famous Delphi charioteer, where the gathering of the sleeves is very clearly marked.[112] In cases where the sleeve is not sewn, the spaces _de_ and _fc_ are joined by a series of brooches, varying in number from four to six on each side. The fulness is produced by taking up a little group of folds at each fastening and leaving the spaces between quite plain; the two edges are usually parted in these spaces, so as to show the arm through. These groups of folds are perhaps more effective than the continuous row of gathers which we get with the sewn sleeve. The Euxitheos vase reproduced above[113] will furnish an illustration of the chiton with pinned sleeves. A short chiton, with sleeves pinned in several places, was frequently worn by men, as is proved by many vase-paintings. We sometimes find women represented wearing a full chiton without overfold, fastened only once on each shoulder, like the Doric dress. This is one of the many modifications which the Ionic dress underwent when introduced into the mainland of Greece. We frequently find on vases figures in rapid motion wearing the long Ionic chiton with many folds, represented by fine close lines, in which the lower edge of the chiton in front is drawn up to an angle on one or often more places. It was supposed by Böhlau[114] that this was meant to indicate that the garment had been cut at the bottom in a series of points. The object of this cutting is difficult to see, and on examination it will be found that wherever the lower edge of the chiton is so drawn up, immediately above it the kolpos hangs down deeper over the girdle; the figures are usually in rapid motion, and the lower edge of the back of the garment, which shows behind the feet, is represented by a continuous curve, without