England -- Antiquities, Roman; Hadrian's Wall (England); Walls, Roman -- England
Seven or eight courses of facing-stones and the {140} projecting
foundations clearly visible gave me great satisfaction as I continued
my way.
The wild-flowers were very wonderful, the yellow cistus, or
rock-rose, growing all over the Wall, with its delicate blossoms and
dark silver-lined leaves. Tall foxgloves sent up their spikes of
nodding blossoms, like stately Roman Emperors, clothed in the
imperial purple, while rosy wild thyme and blue speedwell prostrated
themselves, like humble courtiers, at their feet.
Every writer on the Wall has, I believe, to do his duty in repeating
Sir Walter Scott's verses about the flowers that grow on it--once, at
least. _His_ flowers came from the Nine Nicks, it is said, and not
from this particular spot, but this seems a suitable opportunity for
quoting his lines:
"TO A LADY WITH FLOWERS FROM THE ROMAN WALL"
"Take these flowers, which, purple waving,
On the ruined rampart grew.
Where, the sons of freedom braving,
Rome's imperial standards flew.
Warriors from the breach of danger
Pluck no longer laurels there:
They but yield the passing stranger
Wild-flower wreaths for beauty's hair."
As the ground dips down to the next gap, Cawfields mile-castle is
seen on the slope of the hill. This was the first mile-castle to be
opened, by Mr. John Clayton, in 1848. In the following year Dr.
Bruce took a party of pilgrims along the Wall, and {141} they
christened this gap between Cawfields mile-castle and quarry, "The
Pilgrims' Gap."
The masonry of both northern and southern gateways is massive, and in
splendid condition. It should be studied from north of the Wall
also. The size of this mile-castle is 63 feet by 49 feet. The
pivot-holes of the gates are very clearly seen.
It was now beginning to rain, and by the time I had got through the
gap and into the Cawfields quarry yard it was coming down heavily, so
I sheltered in the shed of the quarry, which is close by the
Haltwhistle Burn, known as the Caw Burn between this point and its
source.
At a bend of the stream are the remains of a Roman water-mill, such
as is described by Vitruvius, writing early in the first century.
Third-century pottery has been found there, and a coin of Trajan;
also the remains of the water-shoot. The mill-stones are in Chesters
Museum. A little defensive rampart ran across to protect it, from
river to river.
We are now also near the Haltwhistle Burn Fort, which is not a mere
temporary Roman camp, as was supposed, but a permanent fort, with two
branch roads leading from the gates to the Stanegate, which here
crosses the burn. The headquarters building, the barracks and other
buildings, and the oven were excavated in 1907 by the late Mr. J. P.
Gibson and Mr. F. G. Simpson. The fort {142} was dismantled when
Æsica, the next fort on the Wall, was built.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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