Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Haifa, July 10.—Next to Jerusalem, the city most highly venerated by the
Jews in Palestine is Safed. I had occasion to visit it a few weeks ago
on my way to a colony of Russian and Roumanian Jews which has been
established in the neighbourhood. Perched on the summit of a mountain
nearly three thousand feet high, it is one of the most picturesquely
situated towns in the country; and there is a tradition to the effect
that it was alluded to by Christ as “the city that is set on a hill, and
cannot be hid,” when he preached the Sermon on the Mount, the mount
being supposed to be one of the Horns of Hattin, a remarkably shaped
hill.
The whole of this district is indeed full of romantic scenery. It is a
country of wild gorges and huge precipices, which escape the attention
of the traveller following the beaten routes, and to most of them
associations are attached, investing them with an interest beyond that
of a mere scenic character. There is, for instance, the Wady Hammam,
where the bluffs are about twelve hundred feet high, perforated with
caves, communicating with each other by passages concealed in the rock,
once the abode of bands of robbers who lived like eagles in their
eyries. Looking up at these holes in the cliff some seven or eight
hundred feet above me, I tried to picture the terrible battle which was
once fought in mid-air between the denizens of these caves and the
soldiers whom Herod let down the face of the cliff in baskets to attack
them. The desperate nature of the struggle, as the soldiers strove to
make good their foothold on the edge of the caves, and the frenzy with
which the robbers, who had no loophole of escape, must have defended
themselves as they endeavoured to hurl their assailants from their
baskets, suggested a scene which was quite in keeping with the gloomy
character of the surroundings. Some of the more accessible of these
caves have been occupied at a later period by hermits, and they may have
been utilized for military purposes at the time of the crusades, but
they have never been thoroughly explored.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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