Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 1 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
_May 1st._--Such a May-day as our poets sang of ere there was a change
of style, and of climate too! A local paper remarks that "the
remarkable facility with which an Englishman takes to water under
certain conditions was exhibited by the word 'bath' appended on the
register of the hotel to the name of every gentleman of the party;"
but it was not quite so easy to obtain the thing as to write the word.
However, everything comes to him who knows how to wait, and we were
all provided at last. By some mischance it was ordered that we should
have a private room (No. 32), instead of breakfasting in the common
room, which was large and airy, and our "aristocratic exclusiveness,"
which was quite involuntary, was punished by immurement in an
_inferno_ which daylight could not reach, and which was perforce
illuminated by gas. It was "_ad suffocandum_," as Dr. Syntax would
say, hot and stuffy. There was a great clangour of church bells after
breakfast. The air was resonant with invitations, and we had choice of
many places and forms of worship. The Church of the Epiphany in our
street was near at hand, and those who attended there found a large
congregation, an excellent preacher, and a well-ordered service. Mr.
Victor Drummond gave the Duke and myself lunch at his lodgings, where
we met Lord G. Montagu and Mr. De Bunsen, of the Legation, and as we
walked to the house I had ample opportunities, though I still know the
names of my friends, of lamenting the effects of the "_longa oblivio_"
of which Juvenal writes, for the changes which have been made in the
city have obliterated most of the landmarks, and time has done the
rest. I could not identify "Jost's," where I lived for so many weeks
between the rout of Bull Run and the winter of McClellan's
preparations in 1861, nor quite satisfy myself as to the precise house
"in Seventeenth Street, at the corner of I," where so many anxious
days and nights were passed during "the Mason and Slidell"
_pourparlers_, and where "the Bold Buccaneers" were wont to meet.
There were new squares and streets in the way, and, moreover, there
were statues to heroes whose lights were then hidden under a bushel.
In addition to the colossal statue of Washington, by Clark Mills, at
the crossing of the Pennsylvania and New Hampshire Avenues, there are
the equestrian statue (heroic) of General Scott, by H. Brown, at the
crossing of Massachusetts and Rhode Island Avenues; Balls' enormous
and "characteristic" statue of Lincoln (paid for by negro
subscription) in Lincoln Park; an equestrian statue of Nathaniel
Greene, the revolutionary general; one of General Rawlins (to me an
unknown quantity--ignoramus that I am!). To these (most of them
"_buccæ bene notæ oppido_") must be added a statue of Admiral
Farragut, very like, but complicated by a ridiculous telescope; a fine
statue on horseback of General Thomas, one of the best of the Federal
generals (_pace_ General Grant and General Badeau); another of General
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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