Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
On the south side the vegetation was more luxuriant than on the north,
though, from the heat of the sun, the reverse might have been expected.
This is owing partly to the curve taken by the ridge being open to the
south, and partly to the winds from that quarter being the moist ones.
Accordingly, trees which I had left 3000 feet below in the north
ascent, here ascended to near the summit, such as figs and bananas. A
short-stemmed palm (_Phœnix_) was tolerably abundant, and a small tree
(_Pterospermum_) on which a species of grass grew epiphytically;
forming a curious feature in the landscape.
The situation of the principal temple is very fine, below the saddle in
a hollow facing the south, surrounded by jungles of plantain and
banyan. It is small, and contains little worthy of notice but the
sculptured feet of Paras-nath, and some marble Boodh idols;
cross-legged figures with crisp hair and the Brahminical cord. These, a
leper covered with ashes in the vestibule, and an officiating priest,
were all we saw. Pilgrims were seen on various parts of the mountain in
very considerable numbers, passing from one temple to another, and
generally leaving a few grains of dry rice at each; the rich and lame
were carried in chairs, the poorer walked.
The culminant rocks are very dry, but in the rains may possess many
curious plants; a fine _Kalanchoe_ was common, with the berberry, a
beautiful _Indigofera,_ and various other shrubs; a _Bolbophyllum_ grew
on the rocks, with a small _Begonia,_ and some ferns. There were no
birds, and very few insects, a beautiful small _Pontia_ being the only
butterfly. The striped squirrel was very busy amongst the rocks; and I
saw a few mice, and the traces of bears.
At 3 p.m., the temperature was 54°, and the air deliciously cool and
pleasant. I tried to reach the western peak (perhaps 300 feet above the
saddle), by keeping along the ridge, but was cut off by precipices, and
ere I could retrace my steps it was time to descend. This I was glad to
do in a doolie, and I was carried to the bottom, with only one short
rest, in an hour and three quarters. The descent was very steep the
whole way, partly down steps of sharp rock, where one of the men cut
his foot severely. The pathway at the bottom was lined for nearly a
quarter of a mile with sick, halt, maimed, lame, and blind beggars,
awaiting our descent. It was truly a fearful sight, especially the
lepers, and numerous unhappy victims to elephantiasis.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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