Historical and descriptive narrative of twenty years' residence in South America (Vol 2 of 3): Containing travels in Arauco, Chile, Peru, and Colombia; with an account of the revolution, its rise, progress, and resultsStevenson, William Bennet, active 1803-1825
History
Historical and descriptive narrative of twenty years' residence in South America (Vol 2 of 3): Containing travels in Arauco, Chile, Peru, and Colombia; with an account of the revolution, its rise, progress, and results
Stevenson, William Bennet, active 1803-1825
Chile -- Description and travel; Ecuador -- Description and travel; Peru -- Description and travel; Peru -- History -- War of Independence, 1820-1829; South America -- History -- Wars of Independence, 1806-1830
The inhabitants of Conchucos are said to be less civilized than those of
the neighbouring districts; there is some reason for this assertion;
they are indeed more uncouth and less kind in their manners. There
appears to be a certain degree of licentious independence in their
behaviour, and more robberies and murders are committed here than in any
other part of South America: however, a stranger is generally treated
with respect. When at Corongos, which is certainly the most disagreeable
town I ever entered, I went to purchase some snuff--the shopman was
asleep, and I awoke him, at which he became so enraged, that he jumped
from his chair and struck at me; I ran into the street, and the man
followed me, swearing most lustily, and threatening to strike me; but a
person who was passing stepped in between us, pushed back the shopman,
and clapping his breast with his hand, he said, with me, with me, that
gentleman is a stranger, _con migo, con migo, el señor es forastero_.
Finding myself thus unexpectedly relieved, I left my champion to settle
matters as well as he could, and hastened to the house of the parish
priest, _cura_, where I, as usual, had taken up my temporary residence.
In a few minutes my friend, though entirely unknown to me, made his
appearance, and inquired what quantity of snuff I wanted; on being
informed, he immediately went to fetch it, and would not admit of any
return for his kindness and trouble, except my thanks.
During my stay at Corongos, the cura related to me several anecdotes
concerning his parishioners, one of which was the following. The titular
saint of the town is Saint Peter, and on the day of his festival an
image of a natural size is carried in procession through the principal
streets; when, on his return to the church, he arrives at the corner of
the plasa, the inhabitants of the upper and lower part of the town place
themselves in two rows, having large heaps of stones at their feet, and
not unfrequently the boys and women stand behind them with a supply in
baskets. The carriers of the image rest here for a few minutes, and then
run towards the church in a sort of gallopping procession; but the
moment that the saint enters the plasa, he is assailed by volleys of
stones from each side, and pursued to the church door. If the saint
enter the church with his head on his shoulders, it augurs a bad year,
failure of the harvest, death of cattle, and other calamities; but if
the contrary happen, which is generally the case, the augury is quite
changed; and if the fishes be knocked out of his hand likewise, every
good thing is expected in abundance during the year. After the
decapitation, a scuffle ensues for the possession of the head, between
the inhabitants of the two _barrios_, or wards of the town, in which
many bones are broken, and generally two or three lives are lost. The
victors carry off the head in triumph, and, like that of a malefactor,
place it on the top of a high pole, and pretend that it averts all
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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