PARCHMENT PATTERN USED TO COVER A BOOK, BEARING THE DATE 1577. (Reduced.)]
The laces of Albissola,[240] near Savona, of black and white thread, or
silk of different colours, were once an article of considerable exportation
to the principal cities of Spain, Cadiz, Madrid and Seville. This industry
was of early date. In many of the parochial churches of Albissola are
specimens of the native fabric dating from 1600, the work of devout ladies;
and parchment patterns drawn and pricked for pillow-lace, bearing the
earlier date of 1577, have been found covering old law books, the property
of a notary of Albissola. The designs (Fig. 37) are flowing, but poor, and
have probably served for some shawl or apron, for it was a custom long
handed down for the daughters of great nobles, previous {78}to their
marriage, to select veils and shawls of this fabric, and, in the memory of
an aged workwoman (1864), the last of these bridal veils was made for a
lady of the Gentili family. Princes and lords of different provinces in
Italy sent commissions to Albissola for these articles in the palmy days of
the fabric, and four women would be employed at one pillow, with sixty
dozen bobbins at a time.[241] The making of this lace formed an occupation
by which women in moderate circumstances were willing to increase their
incomes. Each of these ladies, called a _maestra_, had a number of workers
under her, either at home or out. She supplied the patterns, pricked them
herself, and paid her workwomen at the end of the week, each day's work
being notched on a tally.[242] The women would earn from ten soldi to two
lire a day. The last fine laces made at Albissola were bought up by the
lace-merchants of Milan on the occasion of the coronation of Napoleon I. in
that city.[243]
Among the Alençon laces is illustrated a beautiful lappet sent from Genoa,
now in the Victoria and Albert Museum.[244] The pattern is of the Louis
Quinze period, and the lovely diapered ground recalls the mayflower of the
Dresden and the oeil-de-perdrix of the Sèvres china of that time. It was
supposed to be of Italian workmanship, though the very fine ground
introduced in the _modes_ of the riband pattern is the true Alençon réseau
stitch. M. Dupont Auberville claimed it for Alençon, asserting he had met
with the same ground on point undoubtedly of that manufacture. He named it
_réseau rosacé_.
A considerable quantity of lace was formerly made from {79}the fibre of the
aloe (filo d'erba spada)[245] by the peasants of Albissola, either of its
natural cream colour or dyed black. This lace, however, like that
fabricated in the neighbourhood of Barcelona, would not stand washing.[246]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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