There are other variations of old Italian laces and embroideries which have
not been mentioned here on account of space; either they are not often met
with--certainly not outside Italy--or in some cases they appear to be only
local names for the well-known sorts.
{82}CHAPTER V.
GREECE.
"Encor pour vous poincts de Raguse
Il est bon, crainte d'attentat,
D'en vouloir purger un Estat;
Les gens aussi fins que vous estes
Ne sont bons que comme vous faites
Pour ruiner les Estats."--_La Révolte des Passemens._
We have already spoken of Greece as the cradle of embroidery, and in those
islands which escaped the domination of the Turks, the art still lingered
on. Cyprus, to which in after times Venice gave a queen, was renowned for
its gold, its stuffs, and its needlework. As early as 1393, in an inventory
of the Dukes of Burgundy, we find noted "un petit pourpoint de satin noir,
et est la gorgerette de maille d'argent de Chippre"--a collar of silver
network.[250] The peasants now make a coarse thread lace, and some fine
specimens have recently been made in white silk, which were exhibited in
the Cyprus Court of the Colonial and Indian Exhibition of 1886, and are now
in the possession of the Victoria and Albert Museum.
In our own country, in 1423, we have a statute touching the deceitful works
of the embroiderers of gold and of silver of Cipre, which shall be
forfeited to the king.[251] But the secret of these cunning works became,
after a time, known throughout Europe. Of cut-works or laces from
Cyprus[252] and the islands of the Grecian seas, there is no mention; but
we hear much of a certain point known to the commerce of the seventeenth
century as that of Ragusa, which, after an ephemeral existence, disappears
from the scene. Of Ragusa, {83}says Anderson, "her citizens, though a
Popish state, are manufacturers to a man."
Ragusa, comparatively near the Montenegrin sea-board, and north-western
coast of Greece, was, in the fifteenth and early sixteenth centuries, one
of the principal Adriatic ports belonging to the Venetian Republic. Certain
it is that this little republic, closely allied with the Italian branches
of the House of Austria, served them with its navy, and in return received
from them protection. The commerce of Ragusa consisted in bearing the
products of the Greek islands and Turkey to Venice, Ancona, and the kingdom
of Naples;[253] hence it might be inferred that the fine productions of the
Greek convents were first introduced into Italy by the merchants of
Dalmatia, and received on that account the denomination of points de
Raguse. When Venice had herself learned the art, these cut-works and laces
were no longer in demand; but the fabric still continued, and found favour
in its native isles, chiefly for ecclesiastical purposes, the dress of the
islanders, and for grave-clothes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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