Household words, No. 6, May 4, 1850 : $b A weekly journal
General
Household words, No. 6, May 4, 1850 : $b A weekly journal
English literature -- Periodicals
These gastronomic grievances are solely due to neglected education. M.
Alexis Soyer, with a touch of that quiet irony which imparts to satire
its sharpest sting, dedicated his last Cookery-book ‘to the daughters of
Albion.’ Having some acquaintance with their deficiencies, he laid his
book slyly at their feet to drop such a hint as is conveyed when a
dictionary is handed to damsels who blunder in orthography, or when
watches are presented to correct unpunctuality. It is to be feared,
however, that ‘the daughters of Albion’ were too busy with less
useful—though to them scarcely less essential—accomplishments, to profit
by his hint. Cookery is a subject they have never been taught to regard
as worthy of their attention: rather, indeed, as one to be avoided; for
it is never discussed otherwise than apologetically, with a simpering
sort of jocularity, or as something which it is ‘low’ to know anything
about. When a certain diplomatist was reminded that his mother had been
a cook, he did not deny the fact; but assured the company, ‘upon his
honour, that she was a very bad one.’ People in the best society do not
hesitate to bore others with their ailments, and talk about cures and
physic; but conversation respecting prevention—which is better than
cure—and wholesomely prepared food is tabooed.
Young ladies of the leisure classes are educated to become uncommonly
acute critics of all that pertains to personal blandishment. They keep
an uncompromisingly tight hand over their milliners and ladies’ maids.
They can tell to a thread when a flounce is too narrow or a tuck too
deep. They are taught to a shade what colours suit their respective
complexions, and to a hair how their _coiffure_ ought to be arranged.
Woe unto the seamstress or handmaiden who sins in these matters! But her
‘good plain cook’—when a damsel is promoted to wedlock, and owns
one—passes unreproached for the most heinous offences. Badly seasoned
and ill assimilated soup; fish, without any fault of the fishmonger,
soft and flabby; meat rapidly roasted before fierce fires—burnt outside
and raw within; poultry rendered by the same process tempting to the
eye, till dissection reveals red and uncooked joints! These crimes, from
their frequency and the ignorance of ‘the lady of the house,’ remain
unpunished. Whereupon, husbands, tired of their Barmecide feasts—which
disappoint the taste more because they have often a promising look to
the eye—prefer better fare at their clubs; and escape the Scylla of bad
digestion, to be wrecked on the Charybdis of domestic discord. All this
is owing to the wife’s culinary ignorance, and to your ‘Good Plain
Cooks.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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