In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83Smith, J. J.
History
In Eastern Seas: Or, the Commission of H.M.S. 'Iron Duke,' flag-ship in China, 1878-83
Smith, J. J.
Iron Duke (Ship); Voyages and travels
December 19th.--It has taken us twelve hours to clear the intricate, and
gusty approaches to Manilla Bay, the wind, occasionally meeting us with
such force, accompanied by such a chopping sea, that we sometimes made
no progress at all. On coming to anchor we were rather surprised to find
the "Lapwing" had preceded us, and was lying close in shore.
Manilla, the capital of Luzon, the largest of the Philippine Islands, is
a city of considerable magnitude, and has all the appearance of a
Spanish town in Europe, these islands having belonged to Spain for over
300 years.
Though we arrived on a Sunday it was anticipated there would be no
difficulty in procuring coal immediately. Had the British been in
authority here we should have been _privileged_ to do so with impunity.
When this conclusion was arrived at, one potent factor had not been
considered--"the Church"--and for once in a way we were thankful to the
Church. The archbishop of Manilla and his subordinates hold more real
sway over the minds and bodies of the natives--Indians, as they are
called--than all the temporal power of the governor, backed by his
guards, or even than the king himself.
Amidst all the Spanish jabber around, it is refreshing to hear ourselves
hailed in genuine English, and soon the author of the sound grasps us by
the hand and welcomes us to his house, a request we gladly comply with.
The houses are very like those of Gibraltar, and one's memory is rapidly
borne back to the "Rock," especially as everything around is Spanish.
Perhaps the great feature of the place is its cathedrals; one in
particular, a magnificent structure, so roomy and lofty that I should
think half the devout of the city could find accommodation therein. In
less than two years subsequent to our visit the whole of this grand pile
was little better than a heap of ruins, from an earthquake wave which
passed over these islands. This most terrible of natural phenomena is of
frequent occurrence in this quarter of the world. In many parts of the
city we observed whole streets and churches in ruins, as if from a
recent bombardment.
Cock-fighting is the great national sport, amusement, or cruelty, which
of the three you will, indulged in by the good people of Manilla.
Everywhere along the streets you may meet Spanish boys and half castes,
with each his bird tucked under his arm ready for the combat, should the
chance passer-by make it worth their while.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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