In Search of a Siberian KlondikeVanderlip, Washington Baker
History
In Search of a Siberian Klondike
Vanderlip, Washington Baker
Gold mines and mining -- Russia (Federation) -- Siberia; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel
These people were pure Koraks,[1] a little under the medium size, in
which they resemble the Japanese. I was led into the largest of the
tents, and a wooden bowl containing boiled reindeer meat was placed
before me. To the delight of my host, I went to my pack and produced
some tea. I also displayed some sugar and black bread, which firmly
established me in their good graces. I was greatly surprised to see my
host bring out a box, from which he produced half a dozen china cups,
heavily ornamented with gilt, and bearing such legends as "God Bless
Our Home," "To Father," and "Merry Christmas." He must have secured
them from an American whaling vessel on one of his annual trips to the
coast. So, in the midst of this wilderness, I drank my tea from a fine
mustache cup, originally designed to make the recipient "Remember Me."
These cups were the heirloom of the family, and were brought out only
on state occasions.
[1] Sometimes spelled Koriaks or Koryakes. Korak is given the
preference as being more accurately the phonetic spelling.
When tea was finished I produced some tobacco and filled my pipe and
that of my host, much to his gratification. The sequel was
embarrassing; for when our pipes were smoked out he insisted on
filling them again with his own tobacco. This was rough on me, but I
set my teeth on the pipe-stem and bravely went through with it to the
end. I can say nothing worse of it than that it was as bad as a cheap
American cigarette.
My host was a genial old fellow, and later on he became my bosom
friend. He was the wealthiest man in his district, and owned upward of
ten thousand reindeer. Of course I had great difficulty in talking to
him, but by a liberal use of signs, I made him understand where I had
come from, and that I would like to have him kill some reindeer and
carry them back to the camp where I had left Alek, and, if possible,
bring him to this village. I made a rough sketch of the position of
the camp, and he understood perfectly, as shown by the fact that he
carried out my instructions to the letter on the next day. I asked him
the way to Ghijiga and pointed in the direction that I had supposed it
lay. This was approximately correct, but he promised to give me a
guide to take me to town.
That evening there was another surprise in store for me. They served
for supper the boiled flesh of unborn reindeer. It is accounted a
specially choice viand among the Koraks. This seemed worse than
smoking the old man's tobacco, but I laid aside all squeamishness and
found that, after all, it was a palatable dish. My bed that night was
a pile of skins, a foot deep, in a corner of the tent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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