But the work upon which the padre prided himself most, and which perhaps, did him most credit, was the church. It was one of the few the erection of which had been undertaken of late years, when the time had gone by for devoting the labour of a whole village to such works; and it presents a combination of simplicity, convenience, and good taste, in better keeping with the spirit of the age than the gigantic but tottering structures in the other villages, while it is not less attractive in the eyes of the Indians. The cura employed an amanuensis to write out a description of the church, as he said, for me to publish in my work, which, however, I am obliged to omit, mentioning only that over the principal altar were sixteen columns from the ruins at the _rancho_ of Nohcacab, which were the next we proposed to visit. During the evening we had a levee of all the principal white inhabitants, to the number of about six or eight. Among them was the proprietor of the _rancho_ and ruins of Nohcacab, to whom we were introduced by the cura, with a tribute to our antiquarian, scientific, and medical attainments, which showed an appreciation of merit it was seldom our good fortune to meet with. The proprietor could give us very little information about the ruins, but undertook to make all the necessary arrangements for our exploration of them, and to accompany us himself. At that moment we stood upon a giddy height. To ask the loan of a few dollars might lower us materially. The evening was wearing away without any opportunity of entering upon this interesting subject, when to our great satisfaction, we heard the clattering of horses' hoofs, and Albino made his appearance. The production of a bag of dollars fixed us in our high position, and we were able to order Indians for the rancho of Nohcacab the next day. We finished the evening with a warm bath in a hand-basin, under the personal direction of the cura, which relieved somewhat the burning of garrapata bites, and then retired to our hammocks. CHAPTER V. Journey to the Rancho of Nohcacab.--A Fountain and Seybo Tree.--Arrival at the Rancho.--Its Appearance.--A sick Trio.--Effects of a good Breakfast.--Visit to the Ruins.--Terrace and Buildings.--Three other Buildings.--Character of these Ruins.--Disappointment.--Return to Xul.--Visit to another ruined City.--Ruined Building.--An Arch, plastered and covered with Painted Figures.--Other Paintings.--Subterranean Well.--Return to the Village.--Journey to Ticul.--Large Mounds.--Passage of the Sierra.--Grand View.--Arrival at Ticul.--A Village Festival.--Ball of the Mestizas.--Costumes.--Dance of the Toros.--Lassoing Cattle.--Ball by Daylight.--The Fiscales.--Ludicrous Scene.--A Dance.--Love in a Phrensy.--A unique Breakfast.--Close of the Ball.