Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904Waddington, Mary King
General
Italian Letters of a Diplomat's Wife: January-May, 1880; February-April, 1904
Waddington, Mary King
Rome (Italy) -- Social life and customs
This afternoon W. and I went out together. We left several cards and
wound up in the Villa Borghese, where we walked about for some time. It
was lovely under the cypress trees, long dark avenues with a fountain at
one end--large vases--bits of half-ruined gateways, columns, and
unexpectedly a sort of rond or opening with fountains, statues, big
stones, all in a heap, and then long stretches of lawn with anemones,
violets, and a pretty little yellow flower I didn't know, all perfectly
neglected and growing wild, but with a wonderful charm. Such a contrast
when we emerged again into the regular promenade and the gay modern life
of Rome of to-day. There were quantities of carriages, three or four
four-in-hands with women in light dresses on the tops of the coaches;
men, principally officers, riding (in uniform, which always makes a gay
note), lots of victorias and open carriages. The Prince of Naples (with
the Royal red liveries) driving with one gentleman. He was dressed in
sailor dress, looked smiling and interested, and bowed all the time.
Three or four carriages filled with pretty girls--English or
American--looking hard at everything, and always bands of black-robed
students, seminarists from the various colleges which abound in Rome. It
is a curious motley crowd--I don't think one would see it anywhere else.
The clerical element is always well to the fore, and in spite of the
changes the Monarchy established, with all the train of courtiers,
deputies, soldiers, and endless functionaries that it brings, one feels
that it is the great centre of Catholicism, and that the long arm of the
Church still retains her hold on her children scattered all over the
world.
I will finish now as we have come home fairly early from the Pallavicini
reception. We dined at home and started off about 10. We went to get
Gert, and on arriving about 10.30 found ourselves almost the first
people. Felice Malatesta was there, also Del Monte. Both being
"Gardes-Nobles" they can only come early and not run the risk of meeting
any of the Court people nor diplomatists to the Quirinal. Princess
Pallavicini is one of the Queen's ladies, but she is such an old friend
of both gentlemen that they always go to her. Among the first arrivals
was Massari. He and W. and Prince Pallavicini had a nice talk, and it
amused me to see the people come in. There were about 30 (I knew a good
many of the Romans, but of course the Court people and Deputies were
strangers to me), Wimpffens, Noailles, St. Asilea, Somaglias, and a
sprinkling of young diplomatists. As soon as the White diplomatists
began to appear Del Monte and Malatesta departed. I had a talk with
Villamarina who is very musical, also with Vitelleschi. The party broke
up early--there was no music nor dancing (not even the little informal
"tour de valse" there used to be in our days) and we were home before 12
o'clock. W. enjoyed his evening--talked principally to the men.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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