Kakemono : $b Japanese sketchesEdwards, A. Herbage
Religion
Kakemono : $b Japanese sketches
Edwards, A. Herbage
Japan -- Description and travel; Japan -- Social life and customs
Nagoya is a manufacturing town with a quarter of a million of
inhabitants. It is full of porcelain and fan factories, cloisonné works
and cotton mills. It is the centre of the celebrated potteries of Seto,
and is famous for its embroideries and its silks. It is bigger than
Nottingham or Hull, and is almost as large as Dublin. Nagoya is both
Staffordshire and Bradford--and yet a city clean and still. A town of
sunny streets and pure fresh air, whose sky is blue and clear, whose
trees are green. Its 250,000 inhabitants are mostly factory hands--and
there is neither dirt nor din. The golden dolphins on its castle’s roof
are three hundred years old, and they glitter in the sunshine like
new-fired gold.
* * * * *
On the edge of the growing rice-fields the porcelain factory lies.
Its doors are open to the sun; and in the corner of the low, white
room, where the workmen sit cross-legged like Buddhas, each beside his
potter’s wheel, a yellow vase of purple iris stands.
The room is still and fresh and clean. The whirr of the turning wheel
is soft as the drowsing of a bee. There is no hurry as there is no
idleness. And each worker, as he moulds his clay, looks towards the
purple iris in the yellow vase.
The cloisonné works are built in the heart of the city, in the middle
of a busy street, where blue-clad coolies continually load and unload
the wide coster-barrows which are the waggons of Japan. The hum of
working life is in the air, and the wide road which stretches without
division of pavement across from side to side, is thronged. Business
men in grey _kimono_ and foreign hats go out and in; the loaded
barrows drawn by the blue-clad coolies pass up and down; fast-running
_kurumaya_ steer in and out among the foot-passengers and the traffic.
And the occasional collision is followed by mutual bows and polite
_Gomen nasai_ (“I beg your honourable pardon”), on the part of either
coolie or _kurumaya_.
Nagoya factories and cotton mills are hard at work.
The gateway of the cloisonné works leads down a wooden passage into
a tiny court, a garden set round with the workshops of the factory.
And such a garden. It is not larger than the front lawn of a suburban
villa, but the skill of a Japanese gardener has planted a whole
mountain side with forests of pine and bamboo, has spanned with an
arching bridge the stone-grey stream at the mountain’s foot. From
inside the tiny matted rooms, no bigger than bathing-boxes, which shut
in three sides of the garden, the illusion is complete. And the shade
and coolness of the real trees and water, of the imaginary forest
and stream, brings a sense of calmness and repose, of quiet peace
and beauty, to all the many workers of the factory. It is a living
landscape growing unspoiled in the heart of a workshop in the centre of
a manufacturing city.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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