The train ran for a long time through Sydney, or the endless outsides of
Sydney. The town took almost as much leaving as London does. But it was
different. Instead of solid rows of houses, solid streets like London,
it was mostly innumerable detached bungalows and cottages, spreading for
great distances, scattering over hills, low hills and shallow inclines.
And then waste marshy places, and old iron, and abortive corrugated iron
“works”--all like the Last Day of creation, instead of a new country.
Away to the left they saw the shallow waters of the big opening where
Botany Bay is: the sandy shores, the factory chimneys, the lonely places
where it is still Bush. And the weary half established straggling of
more suburb.
“Como,” said the station sign. And they ran on bridges over two arms of
water from the sea, and they saw what looked like a long lake with
wooded shores and bungalows: a bit like Lake Como, but oh, so unlike.
That curious sombreness of Australia, the sense of oldness, with the
forms all worn down low and blunt, squat. The squat-seeming earth. And
then they ran at last into real country rather rocky, dark old rocks,
and sombre bush with its different pale-stemmed dull-leaved gum-trees
standing graceful, and various healthy looking undergrowth, and great
spikey things like zuccas. As they turned south they saw tree-ferns
standing on one knobbly leg among the gums, and among the rocks
ordinary ferns and small bushes spreading in glades and up sharp
hill-slopes. It was virgin bush, and as if unvisited, lost, sombre, with
plenty of space, yet spreading grey for miles and miles, in a hollow
towards the west. Far in the west, the sky having suddenly cleared, they
saw the magical range of the Blue Mountains. And all this hoary space of
bush between. The strange, as it were, _invisible_ beauty of Australia,
which is undeniably there, but which seems to lurk just beyond the range
of our white vision. You feel you can’t _see_--as if your eyes hadn’t
the vision in them to correspond with the outside landscape. For the
landscape is so unimpressive, like a face with little or no features, a
dark face. It is so aboriginal, out of our ken, and it hangs back so
aloof. Somers always felt he looked at it through a cleft in the
atmosphere; as one looks at one of the ugly-faced, distorted aborigines
with his wonderful dark eyes that have such a incomprehensible ancient
shine in them, across gulfs of unbridged centuries. And yet, when you
don’t have the feeling of ugliness or monotony, in landscape or in
nigger, you get a sense of subtle, remote, _formless_ beauty more
poignant than anything ever experienced before.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account