The Emperor passed one morning in procession from the Imperial Palace,
which adjoins the British Legation upon its south wall, to the newly
erected Temple of Ancestors, the eastern wall of which marks the limits
of the Legation grounds. The festival was in no way public; yet, such was
the splendour of the pageant, that this progress of eight hundred yards,
leaving the Palace by its south gate and entering again by the eastern
gate, cost over two thousand pounds. No warning of the Imperial plans was
given to his Majesty’s subjects. Just before the hour of his departure,
however, the Emperor expressed the hope that the British Minister and
myself would be interested in the procession, inviting us to watch the
spectacle from the Legation domain. Information of the movements of the
Court was, of course, bruited abroad. Large crowds gathered around the
precincts of the Palace and the Temple, attracted by the efforts which
the soldiers were making to form a cordon round the scene. Hundreds
of soldiers were told off to guard the approaches to the Temple. One
battalion of infantry was installed in the grounds of the Imperial Korean
Customs, another occupied the gates and garden of the British Legation.
Despite the fact that the route of the procession lay between the high
walls of a private passage, some twenty-five feet wide, leading from
the offices of the Customs to the grounds of the Legation, into which a
postern gate gives access from the Palace, and through which no Korean is
ever permitted to pass, soldiers, one pace apart, faced one another upon
opposite sides of the road. The public, seeing nothing of the ceremony,
gathered such consolation as was possible from the spectacle of the
masses of infantry occupying the Palace Square. Occasional glimpses of
Palace officials were also secured, and the blatant discord of triumphant
song, with which the private musicians of the Emperor greeted his arrival
and the passing of the Court, fell faintly upon expectant ears. It is,
however, the proud privilege of the Koreans to pay for these promenades
of the Court. If they did not see the august countenance of his Majesty
upon this occasion, it is to be hoped that they derived some consolation
for the heavy taxation, with which they are burdened, from the brave
show made by the brand new uniforms of the troops. The plumes, gold
lace and swords of the officers, and the rifles and bayonets of the men
would have fascinated any crowd. Until the moment of departure, the
army lay around upon the road, sleeping in the dust, or squatted in the
shade upon the steps of buildings, partaking of breakfast—a decomposed
mass of sun-dried, raw fish and rice which stunk horribly, but which
they devoured greedily, tearing it into shreds with their fingers.
Occasionally a loyal citizen brought them water or passed round a pipe,
taking the opportunity to run his finger along the edge of a bayonet, or
over the surface of a coat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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