Life and Letters of Thomas Henry Huxley — Volume 1Huxley, Thomas Henry
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Life and Letters of Thomas Henry Huxley — Volume 1
Huxley, Thomas Henry
Huxley, Thomas Henry, 1825-1895; Naturalists -- England -- Biography
The only place we have visited since my last budget to you was Port
Essington, a military post which has been an object of much attention
for some time past in connection with the steam navigation between
Sydney and India. It is about the most useless, miserable, ill-managed
hole in Her Majesty's dominions. Placed fifteen miles inland on the
swampy banks of an estuary out of reach of the sea breezes, it is the
most insufferably hot and enervating place imaginable. The temperature
of the water alongside the ship was from 88 to 90, i.e. about that of a
moderately warm bath, so that you may fancy what it is on land. Added to
this, the commandant is a litigious old fool, always at war with his
officers, and endeavouring to make the place as much of a hell morally
as it is physically. Little more than two years ago a detachment of
sixty men came out to the settlement. At the parade on the Sunday I was
there; there were just ten men present. The rest were invalided, dead,
or sick. I have no hesitation in saying that half of this was the result
of ill-management. The climate in itself is not particularly unhealthy.
We were all glad to get away from the place.
[Another is to his sister, under date Sydney, March 14, 1849:--]
By the way, I may as well give you a short account of our cruise. We
started from here last May to survey what is called the inner passage to
India. You must know that the east coast of Australia has running
parallel to it at distances of from five miles to seventy or eighty an
almost continuous line of coral reefs, the Great Barrier as it is
called. Outside this line is the great Pacific, inside is a space
varying in width as above, and cut up by little islands and detached
reefs. Now to get to India from Sydney, ships must go either inside or
outside the Great Barrier. The inside passage has been called the Inner
Route in consequence of its desirability for steamers, and our business
has been to mark out this Inner Route safely and clearly among the
labyrinth-like islands and reefs within the Barrier. And a parlous dull
business it was for those who, like myself, had no necessary and
constant occupation. Fancy for five mortal months shifting from patch to
patch of white sand in latitude from 17 to 10 south, living on salt pork
and beef, and seeing no mortal face but our own sweet countenances
considerably obscured by the long beard and moustaches with which,
partly from laziness and partly from comfort, we had become adorned. I
cultivated a peak in Charles I style, which imparted a remarkably
peculiar and triste expression to my sunburnt phiz, heightened by the
fact that the aforesaid beard was, I regret to say it, of a very
questionable auburn--my messmates called it red.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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