But before leaving the pontifical city, I must say one word about the
religious pomps and shows which, in our young day, were celebrated in
high state at Avignon for a fortnight at a time. Notre Dame-de-Dom (the
cathedral), and the four parishes, Saint-Agricol, Saint-Pierre,
Saint-Didier, and Saint-Symphorien, rivalled each other in their
splendour.
So soon as the sacristan, ringing his bell, had gone along the streets
proclaiming where the Host, borne beneath the daïs, was to pass, all the
town set to work sweeping, watering, strewing green boughs, and erected
decorations. From the balconies of the rich were hung tapestries of
embroidered silks and damasks, the poor from their windows hung out
coverings of patchwork, their rugs and quilts. At the Portail-Maillanais
and in the low quarters of the city, they covered the walls with white
sheets and adorned the pavements with a litter of boxwood. Street altars
were raised at intervals, high as pyramids, adorned with candelabrums
and vases of flowers. All the people, sitting outside their houses on
chairs, awaited the procession and ate little cakes.
The young men of the mercantile and artisan classes walked about,
swaggering and eyeing the young girls, or throwing them roses as they
sat beneath the awnings, while all along the streets the scent of
incense filled the air.
At last came the procession, headed by the beadle clad all in red, and
followed by a train of white-robed virgins, the confraternities, monks
and priests, choirs and musicians, threading their way slowly to the
beating of tambourines, and one heard as they passed the low murmur of
the devout reciting their rosaries.
Then, while an impressive silence reigned everywhere, all prostrated
themselves, and the officiating priest elevated the Host beneath a
shower of yellow broom.
But one of the most striking things was the procession of Penitents,
which began after sunset by the light of torches. And especially that of
the White Penitents, wearing their cowls and cloaks, and marching past
step by step, like ghosts, carrying, some of them, small tabernacles,
others reliquaries or bearded busts, others burning perfumes, or an
enormous eye in a triangle, or a serpent twisted round a tree--one might
have imagined them to be an Indian procession of Brahmins.
These Orders dated from the time of the League and the Western Schism,
and the heads and dignitaries of these confraternities were taken from
the noblest families in Avignon. Aubanel, one of our great Félibres, was
all his life a zealous White Penitent, and, at his death, was buried in
the habit of the brotherhood.
CHAPTER VIII
HOW I TOOK MY DEGREE
“Well now,” said my father, “have you finished?”
“I have finished, so far,” I replied, “only ... I will now have to go to
Nîmes and take my bachelor’s degree--a step which gives me a certain
amount of apprehension.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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