_Agaricus gambosus_ (the True St. George’s Mushroom). _Pileus_ thick and fleshy, convex at first, often lobed, becoming undulated and irregular, expanding unequally; the margin more or less involute, and at first flocculose; from three to four inches across; of a light yellow colour in the centre, fading to almost opaque white at the edges; it is soft to the touch; more or less tuberculated, and often presenting cracks. _Gills_ yellowish-white, watery, narrow, marginate, annexed to the stem with a little tooth: they are very numerous and irregular, with many smaller ones interposed, “lying over each other like the plaits of a frill” (from 5 to 11, Vittadini). _Stem_ firm, solid and white, swelling at the base in young specimens; but in older ones, though usually bulging, they are frequently of even size, and when in long grass they occasionally even taper downwards. This agaric is usually nearly white, smooth, soft, and firm, like kid leather to the touch, and, as Berkeley has happily said, “in appearance it very closely resembles a cracknel biscuit.” They grow in rings; have a strong smell, and appear about St. George’s Day (April 23), after the rains which usually fall about the third week in April. They continue to appear for three or four weeks, according to the peculiarities of the season. They are usually to be found on hilly pastures in woodland districts. The St. George’s mushroom cannot well be mistaken for any other. The fact of its appearance at this early season, and growing so freely in rings, when so very few other funguses are to be found, is almost enough to distinguish it. It has, however, very distinctive characters in itself in the thickness of its pileus; the narrowness of its gills, which are very closely crowded together; and the solid bulging stem. [Illustration: Fig. 33. _Agaricus gambosus_ (St. George’s Mushroom). Pastures, _in the spring_; colour, cream; diameter, 4 to 6 inches.] The St. George’s mushroom is not an uncommon agaric in this country, and where it does appear it is usually plentiful--a single ring affording generally a good basket full. It should be gathered when young, or it will be found grub-eaten, for no fungus is more speedily and more voraciously attacked by insects than this one. _Opinions on the Merits of Agaricus gambosus as an Edible Fungus._--“This rare and most delicious agaric, the _mouceron_ of Bulliard, and the _Agaricus prunulus_ of other authors, abounds on the hills above the valley of Staffora, near Bobbio, where it is called _Spinaroli_, and is in great request; the country people eat it fresh in a variety of ways, or they dry and sell it at from twelve to sixteen francs a pound.”--_Letter from Professor Balbi to Persoon._ “The most savoury fungus with which I am acquainted ... and which is justly considered over almost the whole continent of Europe as the _ne plus ultra_ of culinary friandise.