On Horseback Through Asia Minor, Volume 1 (of 2)Burnaby, Fred
History
On Horseback Through Asia Minor, Volume 1 (of 2)
Burnaby, Fred
Turkey -- Description and travel
The path turned, we rode along the seashore. The railway ran along the
side of the track, now ascending in tortuous coils, now disappearing
altogether from our view, to appear once more in the distance, and
almost level with the azure deep. Not a ripple disturbed the surface of
the waters; coloured rocks and stones met our gaze as we glanced into
the abyss below; festoons of variegated sea-weed hung from the rugged
cliffs.
The sun's rays were fierce and scorching. In spite of its being the
month of December, there was a glare as if on a July day. I was
not sorry when, on reaching the crest of an adjacent hill, Osman
dismounted, and suggested a halt for lunch.
"A capital spot, Effendi," he remarked, "there is a spring of fresh
water, a cave, and firewood. I have a beautiful goose, plump as a
Georgian woman, in the saddle-bags. My brother," pointing to Radford,
"shall cook him. Our stomachs grieve now, but soon they shall be
comforted."
He led the way to a sort of cavity in the rock. A fire was kindled, and
the goose, the subject of Osman's admiration, was shortly simmering on
the embers.
Presently the track became worse, if possible, than before. Several
wooden bridges over deep and narrow gullies had to be crossed. There
were no parapets to the bridges. Here and there holes a foot square
let us see the stream below. Then we traversed lanes of water, in some
places up to the horses' girths. The Hammall went first, and wended his
way with caution. Two ditches skirted the borders of the track; the
rain had fallen heavily, and had one of our horses made a mistake or
floundered, his rider would have found himself in at least six feet of
water.
We were nearing Ismid, the Nicomedia of ancient history. Our tired
animals seemed aware of its proximity; they quickened their pace.
Very shortly afterwards we rode into the town. I had sent forward a
messenger to tell the chief of the police that an English traveller
was coming to Ismid, and to ask him to provide me with lodgings for the
night, there being no hotels in the place.
I was met at the entrance of the town by a Zaptieh, or gendarme. Going
before us, he led the way to a house kept by a Greek. Here I found
two clean rooms furnished in the European fashion. The Zaptieh, after
inquiring if I had any orders to give him, left the room, saying that
he would report my safe arrival to the Pacha.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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