On Naval Timber and Arboriculture: With Critical Notes on Authors who have Recently Treated the Subject of PlantingMatthew, Patrick
Science
On Naval Timber and Arboriculture: With Critical Notes on Authors who have Recently Treated the Subject of Planting
Matthew, Patrick
Forests and forestry -- Great Britain
always loosened by the common plough: one of these will remove earth as
fast as twenty men with wheelbarrows.
ON BENDING AND KNEEING LARCH.
We cannot too forcibly inculcate the urgent necessity of attending to
the bending of the larch: for our country’s interest, we almost regret
we cannot compel it. In all larch plantations, in proper {91} soil,
not too far advanced, and in all that may hereafter be planted, a
proportion of those intended to remain as standards should be bended.
The most proper time for this would perhaps be May or June, before the
top-growth commences, or has advanced far; the best size is from three
feet high and upwards. The plants should be bent the first season to an
angle of from 40° to 60° with the horizon, and the next brought down
to from 10° to 60°, according to the size of the plant, or the curve
required,—the smallest plants to the lowest angle.
From experience we find that the roots of larch form the best of all
knees; they, however, might be much improved by culture[22], although
it does not {92} seem as yet to have been attempted or thought of. To
form the roots properly into knees, should the plants be pretty large,
the planter ought to select those plants which have four main roots
springing out nearly at right angles, the regularity of which he may
improve a little by pruning, and plant them out as standards in the
thinnest dryest soil suited for larch, carefully spreading the roots to
equal distances and in a horizontal position. To promote the regular
square diverging of these four roots, he should dig narrow ruts about
a foot deep and three feet long out from the point of each root, and
fill them in with the richest of the neighbouring turf along with a
little manure. When the plants are small, and the roots only a tuft of
fibres, he should dig two narrow ruts about eight feet long crossing
each other at the middle at right angles, fill these as above, and put
in the plant at the crossing: the rich mould of the rotted turf and its
softness from being dug, will cause the plant to throw out its roots in
the form of a cross along the trenches. When the plants have reached
five or six feet in height, the earth may be removed a little from
the root, and, if more than one stout root leader have run out into
any of the four trenches, or if any have entered the unstirred earth,
they ought all to be cut excepting one, the stoutest {93} and most
regular in each trench. In a few years afterwards, when the plants have
acquired some strength, the earth should be removed gradually, baring
the roots to from two to five feet distance from the stool, or as far
as the main spurs have kept straight, cutting off any side-shoots
within this distance, should it be found that such late root-pruning
does not induce rot. This process of baring the roots will scarcely
injure the growth of the trees, as the roots draw the necessary pabulum
from a considerable distance, nor, if done carefully, will it endanger
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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