Garrick, when he came to London and set up with his brother as a wine
merchant, opened their small place of business near here, perhaps where
Durham Street now stands. Towards the end of his life, after an interval
of nearly forty years, he returned to this humble spot to inhabit a
stately mansion on the terrace. We can see now the imposing and floridly
painted ceiling, and admire the spaciousness and grace of the
apartments. These houses are all well designed, the rooms of noble
proportions--particularly the drawing-rooms. They have a unique feature
of a basement in two stories, and you seem to descend into the bowels of
the earth. Now they are given up to offices and public purposes, but
when richly furnished, decorated, and inhabited by persons in Garrick’s
position, the effect must have been admirable. Once after a dinner-party
on a summer’s eve, the company adjourned to the noble terrace, looking
down at the shipping and the bridges, and Boswell, who was
present, describes the scene. It is curious that the brothers
should--unconsciously, no doubt--have renewed the old family street
names of one hundred years before. Just as they found streets named
after George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham--so they christened their
work, as we can see, Robert, John, William, James, and Adam. “Off” Alley
not long ago ran between Buckingham and Villiers Streets--but the name
has been changed of late years.
Still, the wonderful work underground almost excites more interest and
astonishment than what is on the surface. The busy passers-by in the
Strand will note a huge yawning archway at the bottom of a short
inclined street which leads into these catacombs. The work is of a
massive cast, the arches being regularly groined in Gothic fashion. Mr.
Wheatley, who has explored them, tells us: “The arches below form one of
the most remarkable sights in London, but it is a sight that only a few
are privileged to see. I have wandered through these arches with wonder,
under the obliging guidance of the custodians. Below you there is a very
town, much of it filled with bottles of old vintages. The arches were
many of them open for years, and formed subterranean streets leading to
the wharves on the Thames. They were constructed (as stated on an old
engraving) so as to keep the access to the houses level with the Strand,
and distinct from the traffic of the wharves and warehouses. They extend
under the whole Adelphi, including Adam Street, from York Buildings, and
were also carried under the additional buildings at the end of Salisbury
Street. In many places there are double tiers of arches. Some twenty
years ago the Dark Arches had a bad name on account of the desperate
characters who congregated there and hid themselves away in the
innermost recesses, but at last the place was cleared out, and the
greater portion of it closed in. The extensive cellarage of Messrs.
Tod-Heatly gives evidence of the former state, for one of the alleys is
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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