Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
“Knapp made a further step by adding to his alcohol a small quantity
of stearic acid which, as the alcohol evaporated, left a thin fatty
covering on the fibres which completely prevented their adhesion, and
reduced their tendency to absorb water; and he so produced a very soft and
white leather. Somewhat similar are the principles of the many primitive
methods which apply fatty and albuminous matters, grease, butter, milk, or
brains to the wet skin, and by mechanical kneading and stretching, aided
by capillarity, work these matters in between the fibres as the water
evaporates. Such methods are still used, and enter into many processes in
which other tanning agents are also employed.
“Building upon these facts, Prof. Knapp advanced the theory that the
effect of all tanning processes was not to cause a change in the fibres
themselves, chemical or otherwise, but merely to isolate and coat them
with water-resisting materials which prevented their subsequent swelling
and adhesion. True as this theory undoubtedly is in many cases, it can
hardly be accepted as the whole truth, and it seems incontestable that
frequently the fibres themselves undergo actual chemical changes which
render them insoluble and nonadhesive.
“Before Knapp’s work, the prevalent theory, at least as regards vegetable
tannage, had been a chemical one, started by Sir Humphrey Davy. If a
solution of gelatine be mixed in proper proportion with one of tannin,
both unite to form a voluminous curdy precipitate; and, according to
Davy’s ideas, this was amorphous leather. Against this, it was urged
that even the supposed ‘tannate of gelatine’ itself could not be a
true chemical compound, since the proportions of its constituents were
considerably varied by changes in the strength of the solutions, or by
washing the precipitate with hot water; and further, that in chemical
compounds, the form was changed, and no trace of the original constituents
appeared in the compound; while in leather apart from some change of color
and properties, the original fibrous structure remained unaltered.
“This reasoning appears much less conclusive now than it did in Knapp’s
day. Against the last objection guncotton may be quoted as an instance
of profound chemical change with no alteration in outside appearance;
and it is recognized that, especially among complex organic substances,
chemical reactions are rarely complete, but that stable positions are
reached, so-called ‘equilibria,’ in which the proportion of changed and
unchanged substance is dependent on concentration or other conditions;
and that therefore such a precipitate might well be a mixture of gelatine
with a true gelatine tannate from which further portions of tannin might
be dissociated by water.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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