To go to a point determined upon beforehand is good. To lose oneself in
the labyrinth of lanes and alleys and come suddenly upon something quite
as desirable, is even better; and this losing is as inevitable as the
finding also becomes. The first perplexity arises from the fact that a
London street is "everything by turns and nothing long," and that a
solitary block of buildings owns often a name as long as itself. The
line of street which, on the map, appears continuous, gives a dozen
changes to the mile, and the pilgrim discovers quickly that he is always
somewhere else than at or on the point determined upon. Then the
temptation to add to this complication by sudden excursions into shadowy
courts and dark little passages is irresistible, not to mention the
desire, equally pressing, of discovering at once if Violet Lane and Hop
Vine Alley and Myrtle Court have really any relation to their names, or
are simply the reaching out of their inhabitants for some touch of
Nature's benefactions. Violet Lane may have had its hedgerows and
violets in a day long dead, precisely as hop vines may have flung their
pale green bells over cottage paling, for both are far outside the old
city limits; but to-day they are simply the narrowest of passages
between the grimiest of buildings, given over to trade in its most
sordid form, with never a green leaf even to recall the country
hedgerows long since only memory.
It is a matter of no surprise, then, to find that Covent Garden holds no
hint of its past save in name, though from the noisy Strand one has
passed into so many sheltered, quiet nooks unknown to nine tenths of the
hurrying throng in that great artery of London, that one half expects to
see the green trees and the box-bordered alleys of the old garden where
the monks once walked. Far back in the very beginning of the thirteenth
century it was the convent garden of Westminster, and its choice fruits
and flowers rejoiced the soul of the growers, who planted and pruned
with small thought of what the centuries were to bring. Through all
chances and changes it remained a garden up to 1621, when much of the
original ground had been swallowed up by royal grants, and one duke and
another had built his town-house amid the spreading trees; for this
"amorous and herbivorous parish," as Sidney Smith calls it, was one of
the most fashionable quarters of London. The Stuart kings and their
courts delighted in it, and the square was filled with houses designed
by Inigo Jones, the north and east side of the market having an arcade
called the "Portico Walk," but soon changed to the name which it has
long borne,--the "Piazza." The market went on behind these pillars, but
year by year, as London grew, pushed itself toward the centre of the
square, till now not a foot of vacant space remains. At one of its
stalls may still be found an ancient marketman, whose name, Anthony
Piazza, is a memory of a parish custom which named after this favorite
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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