“In the summer of 1832 I was on a walking tour in Wales; in selecting,
as the principal scene of my operations, Merioneth, and chancing one
evening to be overtaken by a storm, when midway between Dolgelly and
Bala, I was speedily placed in the most unpleasant of predicaments. To
go on I was afraid, to turn back was impossible; what could I do? The
night was dark, the rain almost tropical, and the roadway so broken up
with furrows that I could only grope along with the utmost difficulty;
whilst the frequent windings, steep ascents, and sharp declivities not
only added to my embarrassment, but greatly increased my weariness. At
every few yards I either plunged into a miniature morass or, stumbling
over a boulder, found myself smarting in the centre of a gorse bush.
“At length I grew desperate--human nature could stand it no longer--and
resolving to perish with the cold rather than flounder on under such
pitiable conditions, I threw myself down on a rock and prepared to lie
there till daybreak.
“It is possible I had remained in this position for ten or so minutes,
when I was roused to a sense of deliverance by the bright glow of a
lamp, and starting up to my feet, I discovered I was no longer alone.
Confronting me was the figure of a short man, wrapped in a shaggy
great-coat, and wearing a slouched hat. He was holding a lantern in
his hand. By a series of pantomimic gestures he assured me that his
intentions were amicable, and that he was anxious to guide me to some
place of shelter where I should have a more comfortable pallet than a
bare rock.
“I accepted his offer, though not without some misgivings, as I could
not remember ever having met with any one quite so uncouth or bizarre.
“Turning abruptly to the right he struck across a wide moor covered
with gorse and innumerable boulders, and so studded with pools of water
that I seemed to be in a perpetual state of wading. Emerging from this,
we wended our way along the side of a precipice, at the bottom of which
roared one of those mountain torrents so characteristic of all parts of
Wales.
“Beckoning to me to follow, my guide mysteriously disappeared, and
peering over the edge of the chasm, I perceived him, to my amazement,
making his descent by an almost invisible and perpendicular pathway.
For a second or so I hesitated, and then, making up my mind to brave
anything rather than remain by myself in such an unfamiliar and
dangerous neighbourhood, I gingerly lowered myself over the brink, and,
after a few tumbles, succeeded in overtaking him just as he arrived at
the bottom.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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