The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern KurdistanWigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
History
The Cradle of Mankind; Life in Eastern Kurdistan
Wigram, W. A. (William Ainger)
Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Kurds
We outspanned our caravan for the night on the very site of Belisarius'
entrenchments just outside the lower water-gate; for the city enclosure
itself is so cumbered with its own ruins that it is actually impossible
to take wheeled vehicles inside. We might have carried our baggage in;
and the Armenian priest of the village (for there are about fifteen
Armenian families living there) offered us the use of his house most
pressingly, representing that our so honouring him would "increase his
name" among the Kurds. But on this occasion we judged it better to keep
all our possessions together, and stay ourselves to watch over their
safety; and so (as already hinted) we spread our beds on the ramparts,
just high enough up to avoid the mists which might be expected to rise
from the stream. It proved rather a draughty lodging, but this fact did
not trouble us greatly; and we slept undisturbed until the morning star
was high enough to give warning of the coming of the sun.
There is a side-show attached to Dara which is scarcely less interesting
than itself; and as soon as we found ourselves in full possession of
breakfast and daylight (two events which were practically
contemporaneous) we decided that, before continuing our journey, we
would turn back a mile or so westward to visit the tombs and caves.
These make those conspicuous scars which had already attracted our
attention as we approached the city--the wide deep transverse gashes
which are scored across the neighbouring hill sides.
The rock-cut moat of the city could supply but a small part of the
material required for all the buildings, and accordingly shoulder after
shoulder of the hills to the westward has been pierced with quarries for
more stone. When the masons had finished their job these quarries were
promptly appropriated by a flourishing colony of hermits,[34] who
honeycombed all the exposed faces with hundreds of cells and tombs. The
cells are mostly cut into the vertical faces; the standard pattern
having a round-arched recess for a porch, with a seat on either side of
it, and a small square-headed doorway in the middle admitting to a cell
about eight feet square. One of the seats in the porch is often hollowed
out to form a grave for the occupant of the hermitage or sometimes this
niche has been cut out in the floor or wall of his cell. Other graves
are above the quarries, sunk vertically into the horizontal surfaces.
These have an oblong opening, and widen out below beehive-wise so as to
form two or more tombs. The opening was covered in with a gable-shaped
sarcophagus lid, and many of these are lying about though none are
actually in position. No doubt they have been removed by searchers after
buried treasure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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