The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea — John Shaqi
The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black SeaMillet, Francis Davis
Philosophy
The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea
Millet, Francis Davis
Canoes and canoeing; Danube River; Danube River Valley -- Description and travel; Europe -- Description and travel
“By our camp at the mouth of the Traun (July 6th), I noticed purple and
yellow loosestrife, meadowsweet, meadow-rue, white convolvulus, and the
same flowers generally that grow by English rivers. Sea-buckthorn grew
among the willows. By wood opposite Grein saw cyclamen, pyrola,
hepatica, and various ferns, and monk’s-hood just below.”
A light rain, which began while we were in camp opposite the restored
Castle of Rannariedl, continued during the whole day we were passing
through the gorge, and, although we got a fair notion of the beauties of
the scenery, we deplored the absence of sunshine more for esthetic
reasons than for demands of personal comfort. We were cheered a good bit
by a jolly luncheon at the little mountain village of Obermühl, and
while the lowering clouds were still sweeping across the summits, and
ragged patches of vapor were trailing along the mountain flanks, we
paddled out of the gorge and past the town of Aschach, where we were
diverted by the difficulty of dodging a curious ferry, which, as we
floated down, seemed to blockade the river by an impassable line of
great flat-boats chained closely together. The uppermost boat of the
line we soon found to be moored in mid-stream a goodly distance above
the town, while to the lowermost one was attached a great double-decked
ferry-boat which, by ready adjustment of the angle of its side to the
current, was forced across the river by the rush of the water in exactly
the same way that a vessel is propelled at right angles to the wind. The
net-work of side streams and lagoons between Aschach and Ottensheim,
just above Linz, a distance of ten miles or more, is simplified to the
boatman by a line of fine stone dikes on either bank, which confine the
current to a comparatively straight and narrow channel, and we passed
this tangle, which appeared on the map to be very difficult of
navigation, almost without knowing it, certainly without recognizing any
resemblance to our chart. A narrow chain of hills concealed Linz from
our view until after Ottensheim was passed, and the sight of an ordinary
four-wheeled cab, with the usual rawboned horse and red-faced driver,
crawling along the level river-side road, was the first hint we received
of the flourishing, modernized, and somewhat commonplace character of
the prosperous city.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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