The economic position of womenAcademy of Political Science in the City of New York
History
The economic position of women
Academy of Political Science in the City of New York
Women -- Employment -- United States; Women -- United States -- Economic conditions
Naturally, this lack of system and standard is reflected in the demands
made upon workers. In general, it may be said that there are four
stages in making a hat,--designing it, making the frame, covering the
frame, and trimming it. And in general it may be stated that there are
seven kinds of positions open to a girl looking for work in millinery.
She may be a learner, an improver, a preparer, a milliner, a copyist,
a trimmer, or a designer. But when a girl starts to look for work as
preparer, for example, she may turn toward a Fifth avenue shop where
she must be a “neat worker” who can make frames accurately by hand, and
“have an eye for color and form”; here she may advance from preparer to
designer; or she may find her way into a shop a few doors away where
she does not need to make frames because they have two girls who make
all the frames; or she may apply at a department store where in one
department she will have an opportunity to do all the kinds of work
found in the Fifth avenue shop, “only not so particular”; or she may
go into the ready-to-wear department where “you never make a frame but
cover with straw and stick on a rosette”; or she may join the throng
of girls pouring into a Broadway wholesale house, and as she walks
up the stairs she may stop at any one of the five floors and enter a
“millinery establishment.” But in one she will be asked to do straw
operating all day; in another to make dozens of wire frames a day; in
another to trim hats by the dozen and never make frames; in another
to work at nothing but millinery ornaments. In the autumn of 1908 she
finds it difficult to get a position as preparer because “the machines
are driving them out”; and in the spring of 1909 preparers are in great
demand because “the styles have changed this season, and hand work has
come back this month.” In any case, she thinks herself fortunate if she
works more than six months a year at $5 a week in not more than three
or four positions. No prophecy can be made about the kind of skill
which will be demanded in any shop.
But if no two establishments are alike in methods of work, they all
have one characteristic in common. The slack season descends upon
employers and workers alike. Taking the employers’ statements, the
millinery year is at best only seven or eight months long, divided into
fall and spring seasons. The fall season, starting on Division street
and lower Broadway in July, gains headway in August, rushes up Fifth
avenue in September, and then gradually spreads out north and south,
east and west, lingering for the longest time where the current is
least swift. Third avenue and Fifth avenue, Grand street and Harlem
cannot buy early and all at once. In any case, the season disappears
before Christmas. The spring season begins in January, and gains
speed until the Easter rush, after which workers are laid off in great
numbers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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