The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The big windows of the Eustace Miles Restaurant are "dressed" as if
they were shop-windows. Sometimes they are full of tins and packets
of the non-flesh foods arranged in piles and pyramids; sometimes they
look like the windows of a book shop, piles of literature and charts
of the human frame being in evidence; and sometimes boxing-gloves
and foils and pictures of young men holding themselves upright and
sticking out chests as full as those of pouter-pigeons draw attention
to the fact that a physical school high up in the building is one of
the Eustace Miles activities. Sometimes the windows look like those
of a pastry-cook's shop, and sometimes they bristle with copies of
_Healthward Ho!_ the monthly magazine which Mr Miles edits. Always
outside the door in a glazed case is the bill of fare for the day
printed in red and green type, and I have often wondered what "Egg and
Mushroom Fillets and Duxelles Sauce with Asparagus and New Potatoes
(N.)," or "Pinekernel Quenelles and Onion Sauce with Spring Cabbage
and Potatoes (N., F.U.)," or "Hazel-nut Sausages and Gravy with
Cauliflower and Roast Potatoes (N., F.U.)," taste like, and what the
capital letters after each dish mean. Now, however, there was no reason
to linger and look at the card. I was about to plunge into the great
unknown, to sample the dishes with strange names, and to learn the
secret of N.N. and F.U.
A commissionaire, looking just like other commissionaires, though he,
like all the other employees of the restaurant, eats the food of the
restaurant, opened the door to me and gave me a card for my bill, and
my first impression was that I was in a Food and Cookery Exhibition,
for in front of me was a stall piled high with tins of Emprote and a
cash desk with a little model of the E.M. barrow by it, a stall for
pastry and biscuits, and a book-stall; but beyond this first line of
defence I saw little tables with white cloths on them, and many people
sitting at them, and I walked on looking for a vacant seat. I came to a
table with only one occupant, and sat down; a little waitress in a neat
brown dress put the red and green printed bill of fare into my hand,
and I found myself suddenly faced by a puzzle to which the purple ink
_carte du jour_ of a small provincial French restaurant is as ABC is to
a jig-saw puzzle. However, in larger print than anything else on the
card was the announcement that a half-crown _table d'hôte_ luncheon and
dinner was served, so I said to the waitress in an offhand manner, as
though I were an habitué: "I'll take the half-crown lunch, please." She
never budged. "Compacta _croûtes_ or roasted cashews?" she asked me,
and I gasped out, "Compacta," and wondered what on earth I was going to
eat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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